The SJX Podcast

It's been a promising year for independent watchmaking, and Watches & Wonders hasn't even taken place yet. On episode 35 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss Rexhep Rexhepi's first in-house chronograph bearing his own name. What Mr Rexhepi does, others often imitate, so it's worth thinking about how the launch of this traditional-yet-novel chronograph will shape the future of the category.The conversation also turns to Ressence, which has just unveiled its own in-house movement, and has done so at a fair price. Russian AHCI-member Anton Suhanov also joins the ranks of indies with their own calibres, installing a 15+ mm luminous balance wheel in his third wristwatch. And that's not the only Russian watch boasting unusual specs — Konstantin Chaykin revealed the series production version of his ThinKing, the thinnest watch ever at just 1.65 mm thick, complete with double 'mystery' displays.New names also made their debuts recently, including Stéphane Pierre and Mathieu Cleguer, who has come up with a novel double-wheel escapement of his own design. These makers are illustrative of a broader trend in independent watchmaking, namely the engineer-led brand. Show notes:00:20: Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF06:45: Raymond Weil Millesime “The Fifty”07:20: Ressence Type 1110:00: Anton Suhanov Flamingo15:00: Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery16:30: Cleguer Inspiration One18:00: Stéphane Pierre L’Impétrant Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Why do watch debates get so heated, so fast — and why does no one ever change their mind? On episode 34 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon sits down with King Flum, collector and author of the ScrewDownCrown Substack, to dig into the psychology behind the arguments that define online watch communities.Drawing on research from psychologists including Jonathan Haidt and Dan Kahan, the conversation covers why our preferences form before we start thinking, why smarter collectors tend to construct more elaborate — not more objective — arguments, and why an attack on your watch can feel like an attack on you personally.Read more here: https://www.screwdowncrown.com/p/your-brain-is-a-defence-lawyer-watch-forum-psychology Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Seiko is on something of a resurgence, aiming to take back its reputation as a value leader after the emergence, over the past decade, of increasingly competitive micro-brands. On episode 33 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the King Seiko Vanac, now available in titanium, and the Marinemaster, which has been transformed through a number of incremental upgrades. The discussion then turns to some other affordable new releases from Orient Star, Raketa, and Christopher Ward, which just launched an in-house 'flyer' GMT calibre with a five-day power reserve.Show notes:00:35: King Seiko Vanac Titanium3:30: Seiko Marinemaster8:00: Orient Star M4511:10: Raketa Baikonur12:20: Christopher Ward Sealander True GMT Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Watches & Wonders is less than a month away, so for episode 32 of the SJX Podcast we're talking about what we'd want to see from some of the major brands like Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko, and Tudor. It's always difficult to make predictions, and the best releases from every year are usually a surprise, but Andrew put together a few picks that we believe would be crowd-pleasers, were they to be made.SJX and Brandon also discuss the latest minute repeater from Girard-Perregaux, and SJX's own collaboration with Habring²: the Chrono-Felix Medicus chronograph.Show notes:1:00: Patek Philippe3:00: Grand Seiko4:20: Tudor7:30: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Flying Bridges11:30: Habring² x SJX Chrono-Felix Medicus Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 31 of the SJX Podcast digs into two major industry reports — one from Vontobel on the primary market and one from EveryWatch on the secondary — and what they reveal about where value is concentrating in the watch industry. SJX and Brandon discuss the K-shaped nature of the market, the dominance of F.P. Journe among independents, and Cartier's remarkable ability to sell across every price tier. The discussion also touches on the role of emotion in driving purchase decisions, the financialisation of the hobby, and why market reports have limited utility for collectors.Show notes:00:30: K-shaped market dynamics — Vontobel and EveryWatch reports3:00: F.P. Journe dominance among independents4:00: Cartier's unique market position10:00: Emotion vs. financialisation14:00: Marteau & Co.16:00: Phillips Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

On episode 30 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss to what extent the latest crop of jump hour watches constitutes a trend. In just the first six weeks of 2026, several new jump hour models have been released, including a new collection from Audemars Piguet and the relaunch of the Niton brand, which is discussed in detail. Even the Louis Vuitton Convergence also fits into this trend aesthetically, despite being a dragging hours construction. SJX also provides context on the leading jump hour watches in the industry and shares views on whether reliability still matters in today's market. Show notes:1:30: Niton Prima5:30: Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence8:45: Berneron Quantième Annuel11:30: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk12:10: Lange Zeitwerk, F.P. Journe Vagabondage III, and Harry Winston Opus 313:10: How important is reliability? Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

SJX has just returned from the Tokyo launch of Louis Vuitton's third independent watchmaking collaboration, this time with De Bethune. Episode 29 of the SJX Podcast covers what it means for both brands, and unpacks the details of both the GMT Louis Varius wristwatch and the monumental Sympathique clock that it can be paired with.Brandon and SJX also provide hands-on analysis of the Escale Worldtime and Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton that debuted during LVMH Watch Week in January.Show notes:00:30: Louis Varius Sympathique Clock12:30: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime14:40: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Flying Tourbillon15:30: Louis Vuitton Escale Twin Zone17:30: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Recorded shortly after Brandon's return from Audemars Piguet's launch event in Switzerland, Episode 28 of the SJX Podcast provides analysis of all the brand's new releases, including the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, the 150 Heritage grand complication pocket watch, the upgraded Royal Oak Chronograph and its new in-house movement, and the latest open-worked perpetual calendar, which works equally well in Code 11.59 and Royal Oak guise.The conversation also touches on the internal reorganisation at AP that saw the creation of a multi-disciplinary fabrication laboratory dubbed the 'Fab Lab.' Show notes:00:30: Neo Frame Jumping Hour6:15: 150 Heritage pocket watch12:45: Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm18:25: Royal Oak and Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar21:05: AP’s Fab Lab Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 27 of the SJX Podcast opens the archives to find the most impractical and illegible watches that somehow still manage to be worthwhile despite the triumph of form over function. It's a difficult formula to get right, and the landscape of fine watchmaking is littered with examples of watches that sacrificed too much at the altar of fashion. But those that strike the right balance are especially memorable.SJX and Brandon also discuss a couple of emerging independents from as far afield as Japan and Finland.Show notes:01:00: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime Time Pyramid (2014)2:45: Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planétarium7:30: Patek Philippe 5330G Tokyo Edition11:00: New Indies: Nouvelle Chronometrie14:00: New Indies: Kortela Valta Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 26 of the SJX Podcast breaks down the best releases from LVMH Watch Week, which saw the return of the hand-painted Escale Worldtime. The slate of releases also includes a surprising new men's watch from Tiffany & Co powered by the Zenith El Primero, and the first all-new model from the modern era of Daniel Roth. Things are looking up for TAG Heuer as well, which launched a regular production version of the Seafarer with vintage-leaning 'Intrepid Teal' accents, and a new top-of-the-line Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph that has more in common with the likes of Richard Mille than the rest of the Carrera line-up.Show notes:00:30: Tiffany Timer3:00: Escale Worldtime3:45: Escale Twin Zone4:00: Escale Minute Repeater5:00: Tambour Convergence Guilloche11:15: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton13:45: TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer15:15: TAG Heuer Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

The SJX Podcast kicks off 2026 with an analysis of the latest industry news, including Chanel's 30% stake in Kross Manufacture and Vacheron Constantin's initiative to apply the concours format to watches. We also discuss the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in Honeygold ahead of an upcoming review, and compare its merits with its titanium sibling.Show notes:1:00 - Chanel invests in Kross Manufacture07:30 - Vacheron Constantin Concours d’Élégance Horlogère13:00 - Head to head: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold vs titanium Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 24 of the SJX Podcast covers the surprises and unexpected developments of 2025, a year marked by significant material innovation and bold statements from established brands. In this final episode of the year, SJX and Brandon discuss Rolex's landmark Land-Dweller with its revolutionary Dynapulse escapement, Breguet's experimental magnetic constant-force mechanism that achieved unprecedented precision, and TAG Heuer's industrialization of carbon hairsprings. Vacheron Constantin also surprised with an extraordinary 150 kg astronomical clock created for its 270th anniversary, temporarily displayed at the Louvre alongside a companion wristwatch.Thank you to all our listeners for joining us throughout 2025 - happy new year!Show notes:00:35 - Rolex Land-Dweller and Dynapulse Escapement05:45 - Breguet Expérimentale 1 10:30 - Vacheron Constantin La Quête Du Temps 15:00 - TAG Heuer Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 23 of the SJX Podcast looks at value propositions under US$10,000 in 2025, a mixed year for affordable watches. While Tudor continued to refine its sports watch formula with the well-received Ranger 36, several micro-brands made compelling cases for themselves with distinctive designs and upgraded movements. The team highlights releases from Christopher Ward, Albishorn, and Kollokium that demonstrated there's still room for creativity and innovation at accessible price points, even as some established players moved upmarket. We also discuss the Grand Seiko UFA, which is just outside the range but might be worth it.Show notes:00:45 - Tudor Ranger 363:15 - Christopher Ward C12 Loco 7:15 - Albishorn Thundergraph10:15 - Kollokium Projekt 0212:45 - Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA Ref. SLGB003 Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 22 of the SJX Podcast examines complications in 2025, a banner year that saw major brands deliver ambitious and record-setting complications. Several anniversaries, including Vacheron Constantin's 270th and Audemars Piguet's 150th, resulted in inspired releases. Show notes:00:45 - Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication4:00 - A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual6:15 - Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie9:30 - Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#511:10 - Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Cal. 713813:15 - Vacheron Constantin Impresses with the Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time14:07 - Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 21 of the SJX Podcast reflects on independent watchmaking in 2025, a year that saw fewer genuinely new releases than expected. Many familiar names opted for variations on existing models rather than bold new directions, making the standout pieces all the more significant, including Urban Jürgensen's impressive relaunch under Kari Voutilainen, two exceptional time-only watches that proved there's still room for originality in a crowded field, and interesting calendars from Greubel Forsey, Konstantin Chaykin, and Berneron.Show notes:1:05 - Nelson's Victory Pocket Watch at Sotheby's3:30 - Francis Ford Coppola's F.P. Journe FFC Break US$10m at Phillips6:22 - Urban Jürgensen UJ-110:00 - Petermann Bédat Reference 182511:50 - Raúl Pagès RP213:15 - Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 316:40 - Greubel Forsey QP Balancier17:50 - Konstantin Chaykin White Rabbit Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 20 of the SJX Podcast comes to you live from Dubai Watch Week 2025, which has just concluded. The event brought together many leading independent watchmakers, industry executives, and perhaps most importantly a big audience of collectors from around the world. The new venue in Burj Park brought a more sophisticated feel to the event, which was by far the largest in its history. SJX and Brandon share their quick reactions on the final day of the fair. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

On episode 19 of the SJX Podcast, we unpack the news that Francis Ford Coppola is selling his personal F.P. Journe FFC prototype at Phillips in a few weeks (along with most of his other watches).We also discuss the legacy of F.P. Journe, which is coming into sharper focus ahead of the opening of his museum next year. The centrepiece of the museum is set to be the Breguet Sympathique no. 1, a landmark clock originally made by Mr Journe and re-acquired earlier this year for CHF5.51 million (equivalent to US$6.61 million at the time).Show Notes:3:00 - Phillips to Offer Francis Ford Coppola’s Personal F.P. Journe “FFC”5:10 - The Breguet Sympathique no. 1 made by François-Paul Journe12:10 - Cartier Portico Mystery Clock no. 3 Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

For episode 18 of the SJX Podcast, we sit down with Sylvain Berneron, founder of one of the most talked about new brands of the past few years. Fresh off the launch of the brand's first complicated model, the Quantième Annuel, Mr Berneron breaks down what it takes to start a watch business and stay on pace to produce a new model every year.Show notes:00:45 - Fine art to industrial design03:35 - How to launch a watch brand07:40 - 10 employees means capacity for breadth and depth14:15 - A new movement every year; is this sustainable?17:00 - Gold rather than brass for the movements21:25 - Simple to complicated: the product progression at Berneron29:15 - The house style of movement finishing34:45 - Tiered pricing to reward collectors who take the biggest risk38:30 - Real-world impact of big auction results Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

On Episode 17 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon has just returned from WatchTime New York, an event that has emerged as the flagship watch fair in the United States since its debut in 2015. SJX shares his hands-on impressions of Breguet's new ref. 7225, which features a return of the brand's magnetic pivots and is the highlight of the brand's 250th anniversary releases so far.We also examine the hamburger-sized 77 mm J. Player & Son 'hypercomplication' at Phillips - one of the most complicated and impressive British watches ever made, before wrapping up with a discussion about some of the pieces from JP Morgan's own collection coming up in the same auction.Show notes:1:00 - WatchTime New York Recap5:50 - Breguet ref. 722514:30 - Thomas Engel Collector Profile15:15 - J. Player & Son Pocket Watch at Phillips Geneva19:20 - JP Morgan's Frodsham Pocket Watch21:25 - JP Morgan's Cartier Model A Mystery Clock Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

On Episode 16 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss ongoing horology events in Paris and Singapore, the new Piaget Andy Warhol, and introduce a new segment comparing two watches head-to-head. First up is the Ulysse Nardin Freak - how does the original, now 25 years old, stack up to the new Freak S?Show Notes:00:45 - Vacheron Constantin Singapore Event Summary1:30 - Rolex GMT Master event2:45 - Mechanical Wonders at the Louvre9:15 - Piaget Andy Warhol ‘Collage’13:00 - Comparing the original Ulysse Nardin Freak with the new Freak S Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.