Beekman New York: Fine Jewelry Conversations

Episode 39: Live with Arman Suciyan On the Living Tradition of Master Artisanship in Jewelry. Jeweler Arman Suciyan began his training under two jewelry masters in the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, part of a 555 year history in Turkey and tradition that encompasses diverse trades including miniature wax carving , sadekar (goldsmith) , kalemkar (engraver), cameo, lapidary, bejeweling, antique granulation, Turkish style (alaturka mıhlama) diamond setting (rose cut diamond setting) and alafranga stone (European style) setting. We will discuss Arman’s role as a product of this unique aspect of Turkish cultural heritage, as well as his time training in jewelry design in England, his work with Stephen Webster and his own sculptural works, which have been described as art by experts including Melanie Grant in her recent book Coveted: Art and Innovation in High Jewelry. Arman shows us around his workshop and much more! We take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 38: Live with Jean-Christophe Bedos on the Business of High Jewelry. One of the most important historic developments in high jewelry has been the rise of the luxury conglomerates and their ownership of formerly independent maisons, such as Richemont with Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Buccellati, LVMH with Bulgari and now Tiffany and Co., Kering with Boucheron and on. Jean-Christophe Bedos has been the President and CEO of Cartier France, the global President and CEO of Boucheron and now President and CEO of Maison Birks, and thus has had a unique view of the massive changes and growth in the industry from 1988 to the present from the very top. Jean-Christophe has presided over major introductions such as online e-commerce as well as some of the most important high jewelry introductions and collaborations. We discuss the rise of digital strategy, e-commerce, the impact of corporate culture and much more, and take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to listen to the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 37: Prince Dimitri of Yugoslavia, jewelry designer, gemologist, former SVP of Sotheby’s jewelry and author of the new book, "Once Upon a Diamond” joins us to discuss the fabulous jewels featured in the book, in the context of key historic motifs that continue to influence jewelry design. We look at personal family photos of the Grand Duchess Vladimir (Dimitri’s great-great grandmother), Dimitri’s grandmother Princess Olga of Greece and Denmark and of his mother, Princess Maria Pia of Savoy, among others. We pair watercolors from the Grand Duchess Elena’s jewelry appraisal with Prince Dimitri’s modern pieces and discuss the enduring influence of the motifs, materials and techniques of his family’s historic collection. We take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 36: Live with Melanie Grant on Female Power and the Art of Jewelry. In her first book Coveted: Art and Innovation in High Jewelry, released November 11th in the United States, author, journalist and luxury editor Melanie Grant addresses the ways in which jewelry can be classified as art, as well as signifiers of gender roles and female empowerment. We discuss key pieces featured in the book in the context of concepts such as the connection between jewelry purchasing and “the rise of women in today’s society.” We look at how the use of materials and symbolism affects the view of jewelry as art (or not) and discuss key female designers including Suzanne Belperron and Cindy Chao. We take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 35: Kings of Emeralds with Mehul and Keshav Durlabhji. Imagine a family business where your great grandfather purchased the entire wartime emerald production of Colombia in 1946, an economic move so significant that it made the cover of the New York Times. In addition, the Durlabhjis had exclusivity for Sandawana emerald mine production from 1957-1965, virtually determining the top of the emerald market worldwide, as well as leading major gemology and charitable efforts to this day. We examine the finest emerald collection from around the world and hear firsthand accounts from Mehul and Keshav Durlabhji of growing up in a family emerald business so significant that it is said that “no account of (postwar Jaipur) can ignore them.” We take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on iTunes. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Epsiode 34: Applying principles of art collecting to high jewelry. Lisa Anderson, Art Advisor, Curator and Founder, @BlackBritishArt, joins us to explore how the principles used to build a contemporary art collection can be applied to collecting jewelry as art. We discuss how to balance emerging, mid-career and established artists (and jewelers), as well as how she approaches her curation of emerging artists for exhibitions and fairs, such as the Venice Biennale and Art Basel and how this information can be used to build or add to a jewelry curation as well. Artists discussed (some participating!) include El Anatsui, Sonia Boyce, Latoya Boyd, Simone Brewster, Nick Cave, Jasmine Thomas Girvan, Lauren Harwell Godfrey, Anthea Hamilton, JAR, Lenique Louis, Steve McQueen, Munnu The Gem Palace, Chris Ofili, Ebony Patterson, Taffin, Emmanuel Tarpin, VAK, LR Vandy, Mickayla Yearwood-Dan and Inonge Zita. We take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 33: Live with Matt Berman, Creative Director, Branding Advisor, Author and Book Designer. We are all experiencing huge changes in the ways we communicate about and present jewelry online as well as in magazines and books. Creative Director, Branding Advisor, Author and Book Designer Matt Berman has seen it all, from major magazines to crafting the launch of George Magazine with JFK Jr. to creating the design for Town and Country Editor Stellene Vollandes’ new book Jewels That Made History: 101 Stones, Myths, and Legends. We discuss Matt’s fascinating background and review his work in the context of the dos and don’ts of presenting jewelry in imagery. We talk about how social media and digitization has changed creative direction and how he works with companies on their branding strategy. We take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to watch the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 32: Oysters Three Ways, Pearls Five Ways with Chef Victoria Blamey. Did you know that virtually any mollusk can produce a pearl? Can you think of any other creature that is used in haute cuisine, high jewelry and in couture? Explore how we eat and adorn ourselves with pearls (and oysters, clams and mussels) as renowned Chef Victoria Blamey demonstrates three dishes using oysters and we show and discuss the types of pearls that are produced by conch, mussels and quahog as well as by Oysters. Join us to see how “Blamey loads her dishes with more excitement than you will find in other new restaurants...” as New York Times food critic Pete Wells wrote in his three star review. We discuss how Chef Blamey developed her flair for shellfish, what it is like to be one of the few women leading major restaurants, and much more. We take viewer questions throughout, and share the recipes so you can recreate them at home. We take viewer questions throughout.Interested viewers can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube and Vimeo. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 31: Sustainability Versus Ethics in High Jewelry and A Perspective on Nuances of Auctions in the Gulf Region with Sophie Stevens, Deputy Director, Jewelry Specialist, Sotheby’s Dubai. Sophie joins us to discuss the confusion in terms like sustainable versus ethical in jewelry, and to highlight her experiences with auctions and living in Dubai. This is a unique opportunity to discuss some of the exciting and very positive developments across the region from the perceptive of auctions, which of course recirculate existing works. We take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well to view the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube and Vimeo. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 30: Appraising Royal Jewelry with Helen Molesworth. Gemologist, Historian and Gem Necromancer Helen Molesworth join us to discuss insider stories from her experiences in the great auction houses as to how they go about evaluating jewels with historic significance and provenance. How was Princess Margaret’s collection valued and what was surprising along the way? Ask Helen! We take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube and Vimeo. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 29: Live with Francois Arpels, On Growing Up Van Cleef & Arpels. What is it like to be born into a family with a name that is not only famous in an industry, but of cultural importance to a country as well? Francois Arpels joins us to discuss growing up inside the Van Cleef & Arpels company and the Arpels family. He shares family photos, discusses legendary Van Cleef & Arpels innovations including the mystery setting and the zip necklace, original sketches and anecdotes from his father Pierre’s famous creation of the crown of Farah Diba Pahlavi of Iran, and much more. We take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube and Vimeo. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 28: Patricia Inonge Zita Mweene, Inonge Zita. It is striking that despite the huge quantities of gemstones exported from Africa for high jewelry, that they are rarely cut in the locations where they are mined. Designer and Founder of sustainable fine jewelry company Inonge Zita (@inonge.zita ) Patricia Mweene has started a cutting facility in Zambia that utilizes graduates (primarily women) from the local cutting school. We meet some of the cutters and visit the company, touring the emerald cutting process and discussing barriers to entry and how she’s working to improve value addition in the Zambian supply chain. We take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube and Vimeo. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 27: Firsthand with Suzanne Belperron and Paul Flato In the 1980s, already well into his own career as a high jewelry designer, Christopher Walling wrote to both Suzanne Belperron and Paul Flato and ended up interviewing both about their legendary design careers. Hear his account of their conversations, a detailed discussion of some of their legendary creations as well as to see his own work and to learn about his path to jewelry design. We take viewer questions throughout. Interested viewers can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube and Vimeo. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

The 1903 Ball at the Winter Palace has been called "the last spectacular ball in the history of the empire." Rafael Gluz, the content creator of @z.ulg, has curated incredible history and images of this event, and shares insight into the Romanovs and their amazing jewelry as well as examining the mystery behind the whereabouts of the jewels today. We take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube and Vimeo. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

It is our great honor to share this interview with 92 year old André Chervin, co-founder of Carvin French. Hear how he created some of the most famous pieces ever made by Tiffany and Co., Van Cleef and Arpels and Verdura, for clients including Cole Porter and the Duchess of Windsor. André is famous for his skill and his work will never be replicated. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to watch the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube and Vimeo. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 24: Vishal Kothari, Designer and Founder of VAK Jewels, takes us on his first ever webinar interview and tour of his atelier and gallery. See one-of-a-kind pieces in work, learn about his process and how he views his unique creations, which are actively sought after by global collectors. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube and Vimeo. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 21: Nadia Albertini, Heritage and Development, Hurel Textile and Embroidery, joins us to discuss how couture embroidery recreates jewels on the runway. Nadia shares original sketches and swatches as well as incredible images from the finished jewel-inspired works of famed houses Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy and many more. We look at examples including the wedding gown of Farah Diba, Shahbanu of Iran. The House of Hurel, founded in 1879, has remained family owned and has been recognized by the French government as an Enterprise of Living Heritage for its role in French fashion, and Nadia explains how the house collaborates with fashion designers to generate “jewels” in embroidery. We take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as the full interview at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube and Vimeo. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 19: Live with Arundhati DeSheth, Jewelry Advisor. Arundhati talks with us about how a jewelry advisor works, about emerging Indian designers and the high jewelry landscape in India and abroad. She shows amazing jewelry from her network and much more! Interested viewers can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as the full video at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube and Vimeo. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 18: Live with Robbie Fairchild, Actor and Dancer. Robbie talks about the history of men and jewelry, toxic masculinity and how to embrace dressing the part with jewelry as a shared experience. Robbie shares stories from his roles on Broadway in An American in Paris, from his time as a principal dancer at the New York City Ballet and from his role in the recent film version of Cats. We look at detailed images of influential men in jewelry and take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full video at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube and Vimeo. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.

Episode 17: Live with Renu Choudhary, Founder and Editor-in-Chief, The Diamond Talk. Jewelry Advisor Renu Choudary has assembled images and tales from the history and collection of the Nizams of Hyderabad in a 21-part series on her site The Diamond Talk. Mir Osman Ali Khan Siddiqi, Asaf Jah VII (6 April 1886 – 24 February 1967), the last Nizam of Hyderabad, ruled Hyderabad between 1911 and 1948 until it was annexed by India. One of the greatest jewelry buyers in the world, the 7th Nizam of Hyderbad was a key client of major high jewelry houses including Cartier. We look at detailed images of this legendary collection and talk insider stories from Renu's posts and take viewer questions throughout. Interested listeners can also view additional imagery at the Beekman New York instagram @beekmannewyork as well as to view the full conversation at the Beekman New York Fine Jewelry Podcast on YouTube and Vimeo. Each episode of the series features a conversation between Dr. Sharon Novak, certified gemologist and co-founder of Beekman New York, and an industry expert within the luxury space, highlighting their shared joy and appreciation of fine jewelry. Topics include mixing period jewelry with modern pieces, heritage and craftsmanship of luxury jewelry houses worldwide, certfied natural and phenomenal gems and collecting vintage jewelry.