Forward Momentum

This week on Forward Momentum, I caught up with my good friend and recurring guest C’Q The Watch Guy to unpack the state of the watch industry—from auction house trends to independent watches at auction. We covered a lot of ground: the resurgence of yellow gold, the rise of quiet product launches, the importance of collector experience, and the ongoing discussion around pricing.Auctions continue to set the tone for market values, sometimes inflating expectations, but also shining a light on standout pieces. Meanwhile, independent brands are earning real respect among educated collectors who value design and craftsmanship over just the name on the dial.We also talk about Jean-Claude Biver’s continued influence, what’s happening with brands like Urban Jürgensen and Moser, Greubel Forsey’s quiet launches, and what these shifts mean for both new and seasoned collectors.If you’re navigating the watch industry—as a buyer, seller, or curious observer—I think this conversation will offer a lot of takeaways and insights to think about over the long summer break.Key Takeaways:* Independent watchmakers are gaining momentum, and collectors are paying attention to originality and craftsmanship over legacy names.* Watch pricing is creeping higher, prompting collectors to weigh long-term value and resale potential more carefully.* Auction houses like Phillips are shaping the narrative and driving enthusiasm—but also pushing prices sky-high.* Too many SKUs and colorways are diluting product lines. Strategic restraint may win out.* The buying experience matters. It’s not just about the watch—it’s how it’s delivered, who presents it, and what story it tells.* Yellow gold is making a comeback, and brands should take note.* Quiet product drops are outperforming overhyped launches. Subtlety is back in style.* Jean-Claude Biver’s impact on the industry continues to ripple outward.* The U.S. market remains strong despite economic headwinds—especially for rare or emotional pieces.* The collector base is evolving: smarter, more diverse, and more experience-driven.Chapters:00:00 – Auction Season Recap and What’s Coming Next05:58 – Independent Watchmakers and the Pricing Puzzle12:04 – Moser’s New Drops and the SKU Overload17:48 – Inside the Auction Scene: Monaco Legends to Phillips31:42 – New Brands, Old Problems38:47 – What Collectors Really Want Right Now48:56 – Can the Watch Industry Build True Community?55:51 – What Stood Out at Phillips01:02:18 – Rarity, Importance, and Value at Auction01:07:37 – The Rise of Female Collectors01:15:09 – Frustrations with Auction Houses01:23:08 – Final Takeaways and Where We Go From Here Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

I caught up with C’Quon Gottlieb, C'Q The Watch Guy, to breakdown the results from Hong Kong. We look at the strength of independent brands at auction, and the current trend towards classic watch designs. We explored the significance of the Hong Kong auctions, how the landscape of auction houses is evolving, and why timeless watchmaking continues to resonate so deeply.Our dialogue touched on the value of heritage and craftsmanship in the watch industry, and we unpacked the subtle differences between modern and vintage pieces. We also discussed the growing competition between the two, the importance of watches like the Greubel Forsey Piece D’Ecole prototype, and offered some predictions for the upcoming New York auctions at Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s. It was a deep dive into what makes luxury watches so compelling—and how market dynamics shape their appeal and value.Chapters00:00 Introduction and CP Time Event Recap05:56 The Strength of Independent Brands11:57 The Value of Timeless Design18:12 Antiquorum's Unique Approach31:06 The Future of Watch Auctions41:13 Antiquorum's Biggest Lot: The Grubel Forsey Prototype47:21 Upcoming Auctions: Phillips, Christie's, and Sotheby's54:41 Unique Picks from Sotheby's and Christie'sKey Takeaways* The recent CP Time event in Dallas was a success, attracting many new faces.* Hong Kong auctions present challenges for US-based collectors due to timing.* Phillips and Christie's continue to dominate the auction scene, but new players like Antiquorum are emerging.* F.P. Journe remains a strong brand in the independent watch market, with significant auction results.* Classic round watches are currently trending, appealing to collectors seeking timeless designs. I feel like brands that are more avant-garde are going to experience stronger headwinds as we move towards more classic styling.* Antiquorum's approach to reporting auction results might be my favorite yet- they offer both the hammer and the all-in pricing for each of their lots.* Comparing modern and vintage watches can reveal interesting insights into design evolution.* Collectors are increasingly looking for intimate connections with their timepieces.* The market for independent brands is growing, with collectors willing to invest in quality. The future of watch auctions will see a battle between modern and vintage pieces.Want more?With the New York Auctions around the corner, this will be the last major event before the summer break. If you want the inside line on auctions, market shifts, and what collectors are really paying attention to, subscribe to stay in the loop.If you found this breakdown useful, share it with a fellow collector, a friend who missed out in Hong Kong, or anyone who’s curious about the independent scene. It helps more than you know.Thanks as always for reading and for being part of a community that knows that there are still great stories in watchmaking beyond the hype. Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

I asked friend and collector advisor C'Q Gottlieb of Gottlieb & Co. (@C'Q_TheWatchGuy) to jump on with me and discuss the Spring 2025 Geneva watch auctions, the evolution of watch events, and the contrasting experiences offered by different auction houses. We look at the impact of auction results on the market, the rise of independent watchmakers, and the importance of collecting knowledge. Our discussion also touches on the balance between investment and passion in watch collecting, emphasizing the need for a deeper connection to the pieces being acquired. In this conversation, we highlight significant sales and the evolving landscape of watch collecting - discussing the impressive performance of independent watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and the challenges faced by established brands like Richard Mille and Greubel Forsey. We reflect on the vintage Rolex market, particularly the allure of mil subs, and anticipates future auction trends as the market stabilizes.Takeaways* The Geneva watch auctions showcased a variety of lots, highlighting the return to more unique pieces at auction.* Intimate watch events are becoming rare, with larger gatherings often losing the personal touch.* Auction houses like Phillips create a theatrical experience that enhances the bidding process.* The market for independent watchmakers is growing, with collectors becoming more educated about their offerings.* Knowledge about collecting specific brands is crucial for making informed purchases.* The passion behind independent watchmaking is evident in the personal connections formed with collectors.* Investment should not be the primary motivation for purchasing luxury watches.* The landscape of watch collecting is changing, with a focus on personal enjoyment over financial gain.* Understanding the history and craftsmanship of watches adds value to the collecting experience.* The current market dynamics require collectors to be more strategic in their purchases. The auction results for independent watchmakers are promising, indicating a growing interest.* Constantine Chaikin's pieces are gaining significant support from collectors.* Richard Mille's market presence is softening, with lower auction results than expected.* Grubel Forsey is returning to its roots, focusing on traditional craftsmanship.* The vintage Rolex market remains strong, particularly for mil subs, despite its risks.* Market sentiment is shifting, with collectors becoming more cautious in their spending.* The secondary market for luxury watches is crucial for brand success.* The excitement around thematic auctions is evident, but results can vary widely.* Future auctions will be a key indicator of market health as we move into summer.* The watch industry is returning to a more realistic market after a period of inflated prices.Chapters00:00 Introduction to the Geneva Watch Auctions03:09 The Evolution of Watch Events06:01 Auction Houses: A Tale of Two Experiences08:55 The Impact of Auction Results on the Market11:50 The Rise of Independent Watchmakers14:57 The Importance of Collecting Knowledge17:49 The Passion Behind Independent Watchmaking20:54 Investment vs. Passion in Watch Collecting27:57 Auction Highlights: A New Era for Watch Collecting30:10 The Rise of Independent Watchmakers32:41 Market Sentiment: A Shift in Values34:44 Richard Mille: The Changing Landscape39:31 Greubel Forsey: Balancing Tradition and Innovation42:47 Vintage Rolex: The Allure of Mil Subs48:59 Looking Ahead: Future Auctions and Market TrendsThanks for listening this week. Stay tuned for more auctions updates and breakdowns as we work our way through spring auction season.If you don’t already, please consider subscribing to my newsletter to stay up to date with my latest musings and insights on the industry.Please share this article and spread the word to fellow watch enthusiasts and collectors, or the watch curious folks in your life.Your support means the world and allows me to keep bringing value to the watch community. Thank you for being part of this journey! Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

In this episode, Todd from Idea 33 joins Alex and Leonard from Geneva Seal, along with special guests Dr. Mack and Claude Greisler from Armin Strom.They discuss their excitement about the unique identity of Armin Strom watches. Claude highlights several new releases from Watches and Wonders, including the dual time GMT Resonance in stainless steel, the titanium skeletonized One-Week watch, and the limited edition purple Orbit.Each guest shares their favorite pieces and the notable features that stand out to them. The discussion concludes with a look at future releases and innovations from Armin Strom, with some hints give by Claude about what Armin Strom will launch in the next year!00:00 Introduction and Special Guests00:24 Collector's Perspective: Dr. Mack00:52 Retailer's Perspective: Alex and Leonard01:35 Watches and Wonders: New Releases04:36 Roundtable Discussion: Favorite Pieces08:59 Future of Armin Strom09:58 Conclusion and Thank You Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

What's happening watch fans? It's taken me a long time to get out a GWD reaction podcast - simply because there wasn't that much to get excited about. There weren't many new releases, unlike years past, and that's clearly in reaction to what's happening in the watch market. Instead of being a shot in the arm, I actually GWD has proven to serve as a community event and an event that brings collectors into the watch industry. I asked my friend Baudouin van Es from Tourbillon Watch to provide some additional details on the event. I appreciate his insights and his willingness to share his thoughts. Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

I should have realized this was episode 33, but I forgot! Welcome back watch fans, Geneva Watch Days is two days away, so I guess that means my summer break is over and it’s back top bringing you updates on the watch industry and independent watchmaking.This week I do a preview of what’s coming at Geneva Watch Days, what it signals in the market, and what to expect as the fall opener for the watch industry begins this week in Geneva.GWD kicks off the fall auction season with the charity auction that benefits the Geneva Watchmaking School and auctions will follow in Hong Kong, Geneva, and New York. GWD is really the official end of summer and brings everyone together in Geneva.There’s a lot to look forward to, but I think the response to this show will be telling about what is really happening in the industry. Will watch brands push the boundaries or remain conservative - we’ll know later this week.Stay tuned for the follow up show this week with reports from the field, reactions, and my response to the new releases. And for those of you asking for the SR-71 speed check story, here it is! Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

What's happening, watch fans? I am excited to bring you the second episode of the MB&F Tales from the Tribe podcast in this special interlude that features me! I was honored to be asked by Max to participate in the podcast and to be the second episode. What a joy to share some time with Max and the team, and I hope you all enjoy the episode. You can find MB&F Tales From the Tribe on your podcast platform of choice!This second episode of our series features Todd Searle. Todd defines himself as a dreamer, which is the best way to talk about him. He is so passionate about artisanal watchmaking that he left everything behind to live fully in his passion, becoming one of the main directors of watchmaking documentaries in the world. Fierce protector of the spirit of entrepreneurship, he is the author of “32 Regrets : A Guide to Reclaiming Creativity”, where he talks about entrepreneurs who have successfully turned their life’s passion into self sustaining ventures, including Maximilian Büsser.In this episode, Todd talks about failure as a major key to success, his love at first sight for artisanal watches, his passion for the history of Swiss watchmaking and most of all, about creativity as a major driver in his life.----Tales From The Tribe is an MB&F creation, hosted by Maximilian Büsser. Production : Lacmé Studios & Converge - Author : Hugo Baiardi - Direction : Josh Vardey - Mix : Ben Auriel - Original Soundtrack : Pablo Altar-  Graphics : Maxime Schertenleib. Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

This is a special Forward Momentum interlude to bring you the MB&F Tales From the Tribe Podcast.This first episode of our series features Wen Hsieh. He was, until recently, a managing partner at Kleiner Perkins, one of the world's most prominent venture capital firms in Silicon Valley, he's an expert at fostering tech innovations through startups, and he just started his own Hardtech VC firm Matter Venture Partners. Maximilian Büsser says that meeting him is one of the high points of his last couple of years, because as successful as Wen is as an entrepreneurial venture capitalist, he still cultivates a little touch of madness in everything he does. In this episode, we’ll talk about Wen’s childhood in the Amazon jungle living like a native Indian kid, Google’s historic first fundraise, the power of imagination in his daily life, his willingness to find work life balance as a busy venture capitalist, and finally the dream he wishes to achieve in the year to come.----Tales From The Tribe is an MB&F creation, hosted by Maximilian Büsser. Production : Lacmé Studios & Converge - Author : Hugo Baiardi - Direction : Josh Vardey - Mix : Ben Auriel - Original Soundtrack : Pablo Altar-  Graphics : Maxime Schertenleib. Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

What's happening, watch fans? I am back with a quick interlude to share the MB&F Tales From the Tribe podcast. Max and team asked me to be a guest on the show in Episode 2, and I am honored to be featured on the show alongside Wen Hsieh. Please enjoy these two episodes of Tales From the Tribe, and you can find their show in your podcast player of choice.----To Maximilian Büsser, founder of MB&F, watchmaking is art, but most of all, it’s a mindset, a journey. The history of watchmaking is filled with adventurers - dreamers, engineers, artists who will each in their own way contribute to a better world. The watchmaking journey is first and foremost about very special individuals. Some are rebels and mavericks and most have a little touch of madness…Over the years, MB&F has united around the brand a collectors’ circle called “The Tribe”, who are each in their own way adventurers. In this podcast, you’ll discover their amazing lives, what drives their creativity and what feeds their passion for watchmaking. Welcome to Tales from the Tribe, the MB&F’s Podcast.----Tales From The Tribe is an MB&F creation, hosted by Maximilian Büsser. Production : Lacmé Studios & Converge - Author : Hugo Baiardi - Direction : Josh Vardey - Mix : Ben Auriel - Original Soundtrack : Pablo Altar-  Graphics : Maxime Schertenleib. Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

In Part I of our Gerald Charles episode I was joined by Franco and Federico Ziviani of Gerald Charles, Alex Kats of Geneva Seal in Chicago, @Jardins_des_rois, and @gregwatchman for a chat on the brand, building on the legacy of Gerald Genta, and the future of design at Gerald Charles.In Part II, we return well fed thanks to GT Prime Steakhouse, but return with special guests Evan Turner and Andre Iguodala, and Charles Taylor to talk more in depth about Gerald Charles, and honestly, more about what make watches interesting.We discuss the design and features of the Gerald Charles lineup, including gem set watches and the Maestro GC Sport. We also talk about the inspiration behind the brand and the importance of storytelling. The future of Gerald Charles includes expanding their collection with more complications and maintaining their focus on limited production. They also hint at a possible extension of the tennis collection and potential future collaborations with other sports, such as Formula 1.I’ll apologize in advance (again) for the sound quality - we had a rough time passing mics around the table and resorted to an omnidirectional mic for some of the channels.Chapters00:00 Introduction to Forward Momentum and Independent Watchmaking01:44 Exploring Gem Set Watches and Tennis04:02 The Future of Gerald Charles08:25 Fashion and Style in London14:38 The Design and Features of Gerald Charles Watches15:36 The Future of Gerald Charles: Complications and Limited Production19:11 Closing Remarks and Shoutouts Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

What's happening, watch fans? I am back with another episode in my live collection. I have really enjoyed traveling to and getting to meet with brands, retailers, and collectors, and having the opportunity to record these episodes in person. In this episode of Forward Momentum, my guests are Franco Ziviani and Federico Ziviani of Gerald Charles, and we are joined by Alex Kats of Geneva Seal, JDR, and Gregwatchman. We discuss the history and legacy of the brand, the importance of preserving Gerald Genta's vision, and the passion and emotion behind their watches. From a retailer and collector side, we discuss the versatility and wearability of Gerald Charles watches, the craftsmanship and engineering behind their designs, and the familial nature of the brand. We touch on the gem set and sapphire pieces launched at Watches and Wonders, highlighting the brand's commitment to creating colorful and pleasurable timepieces.Takeaways Gerald Charles is a brand that is deeply rooted in the history and legacy of Gerald Genta, and the Ziviani family is committed to preserving his vision. The passion and emotion behind Gerald Charles watches are what make them truly special and unique. The brand focuses on creating versatile and wearable timepieces that can be worn in various settings. Craftsmanship and engineering are key aspects of Gerald Charles watches, with a strong emphasis on functionality and precision. The gem set and sapphire watches launched at Watches and Wonders showcase the brand's commitment to creating colorful and pleasurable timepieces.Key Moments00:00 Introduction to Forward Momentum and Gerald Charles01:16 The History and Legacy of Gerald Charles07:24 Passion and Emotion in Watchmaking13:20 Versatility and Wearability of Gerald Charles Watches14:35 JDR weighs in18:00 Gregwatchman weighs in18:30 The new Masterlink Collection25:53 Colorful and Pleasurable: The Gem Set and Sapphire Watches26:20 The tennis collection (& how Alex's allocation might be decided). 27:30 - Why thin watches? Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

This week I caught up with Christopher Daaboul of EsperLuxe in his space inside Date & Time in Boston. Chris and I caught up live in the boutique, which was a fantastic atmosphere and Chris shares his journey in the watch industry, from working with his father in wholesale distribution to becoming a retailer of independent watchmakers. We discuss the significance of independent watchmaking, the diversity of the watch industry, and the emotional connection of collecting. We speak about his favorite brands, his toughest moments, and the need for the world to understand how special these independent brands and watchmakers really are. Chapters00:00 Introduction and Background in Watch Industry03:17 Transition from Wholesale to Retail06:39 The Birth of Esperlux and the Proof of Concept Year09:29 Five-Year Anniversary and Milestones in Watch Retailing Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

This week it is my extreme pleasure to welcome Niels Eggerding to Forward Momentum. Niels is the CEO of Frederique Constant, part of the Citizen Holdings Group. I've wanted to talk to Niels since our panel discussion at Watches & Wonders 2023 on the Frederique Constant Monolithic Oscillator. The brand delivers innovation and incredible watchmaking at a very attainable price point, offering 33 in house movements in addition to their ETA movement powered watches. Niels discusses the success of Watches and Wonders, the shift in Frederique Constant's product offerings, and the brand's ethos of offering fair-priced, high-quality watches. He also talks about the challenges the brand faces, such as supply chain issues and finding skilled watchmakers. Niels shares his passion for craftsmanship and his vision for the future of Frederique Constant, including potential future watches and his desire to keep innovating with his team.Takeaways Watches and Wonders was a success for Frederique Constant The brand has shifted its product offerings to more entry-level and volume-driven watches Challenges include supply chain issues and finding skilled watchmakers The brand's ethos is to offer fair-priced, high-quality watches Niels is passionate about craftsmanship and innovation The future of Frederique Constant includes potential collaborations and innovative watch designsChapters00:00 Introduction and Weather at Watches and Wonders01:56 Shifting Product Offerings03:46 Challenges in the Industry06:07 The Ethos of Frederic Constant09:54 Passion for Craftsmanship and Innovation Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

In this episode, Stephen McDonnell is back for Round Two to discuss his recent projects, including his experience at Dubai Watch Week and his insights on watch innovation. We explore the inspiration behind the MB&F LM Sequential EVO and the fascinating integration of vintage sports timing into modern watch design.Stephen's passion for vintage motorcycles, especially Norton, shines through as he discusses his ongoing restoration project. Throughout our conversation, we highlight the importance of relatable human stories in the world of watchmaking.Stephen shares the journey of pitching the sequential chronograph idea to MB&F and the positive response it received. He delves into the technical challenges faced and the crucial role of geometry in the design process. Stephen also shares the ups and downs, from a disastrous prototype stage to the eventual success achieved through nine months of incremental improvements.We explore topics like the dynamic effects of high-speed movements, the challenge of inertia in the clutch, and the emotional toll of watchmaking. Stephen reflects on the significance of the LM Sequential EVO winning the GPHG and how it has personally impacted his life.Finally, we touch on Stephen's fascination with John Harrison's clocks and get a glimpse into his exciting future projects. Tune in to hear the captivating journey of innovation and passion in the world of watchmaking!Takeaways Stephen has been working on finishing projects with MB&F and has started a new project with them as well. Stephen gave a talk at Dubai Watch Week titled 'The Trials and Tribulations of Watch Innovation' that received positive feedback and resonated with a wide audience. The Sequential EVO was inspired by the challenge of integrating vintage sports timing solutions into a single watch. Stephen is passionate about vintage motorcycles, particularly Norton, and is currently restoring one in his garage. Synchronizing the chronograph in the Sequential One watch was a major challenge for Stephen. It took nine months of incremental improvements to solve the problem. The dynamic effect of high-speed movements and the challenge of inertia in the clutch were key factors in the chronograph's performance. The emotional toll of watchmaking, especially when faced with difficult challenges, can be significant. Stephen is interested in John Harrison's clocks and has a fascination with master clocks for future projects.Chapters00:00 Introduction and Plans for Watches and Wonders01:10 Stephen's Recent Projects03:42 Stephen's Experience at Dubai Watch Week05:13 Stephen's Talk on Watch Innovation06:27 The Importance of Relatable Human Stories09:01 The Inspiration for the Sequential EVO14:29 The Story Behind the Sequential EVO23:20 Stephen's Interest in Vintage Motorcycles25:39 Stephen's Norton Motorcycle Restoration26:16 The Challenges of Watchmaking28:31 Pitching the Idea to MB&F33:02 Designing the Sequential Chronograph36:27 The Internally Dual Vertical Clutch41:42 Overcoming Technical Limitations44:24 CAD Design Process47:29 Challenges in Building the Prototype52:21 Prototype Tool Disaster54:33 Catastrophic Prototype Failure56:18 The Challenge of Synchronizing the Chronograph58:04 Incremental Improvements in the Sequential Chronograph59:09 The Dynamic Effect of High-Speed Movements01:00:32 The Challenge of Inertia in the Clutch01:03:30 Testing and Solving the Chronograph Problem01:05:25 The Impact of the Chronograph Challenge01:06:16 The Recognition and Price of the Sequential One01:07:49 The Emotional Toll of Watchmaking01:10:49 The Personal Significance of the Sequential One01:14:25 The Significance of John Harrison's Clocks01:16:01 Stephen's Interest in Master Clocks01:18:00 Possible Future Projects01:18:28 Closing RemarksThe book we mention about John Harrison is called Longitude: The True Story of a Lone Genius Who Solved the Greatest Scientific Problem of His Time by Dava Sobel. Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

I caught up with Felix Baumgartner of URWERK during Geneva Watch Week. We caught up on the SpaceTime Blade, the UR-230 launched at Dudai Watch Week, and the recently released UR-100 Lightspeed. We speak about how URWERK's watches help you see and feel our palce in the universe, and how URWERK is a singularity in watchmaking. Their design is so focused on the end-user and so deeply philosophical, that it is hard to understand their product without hearing Felix and Martin describe it, because everything is there for a reason, and those reasons are deeply rooted in the history of time, clockmaking, and human history. Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

Sylvain Pinaud and I discuss his journey in independent watchmaking and the unique atmosphere in Sainte-Croix, where he is based. He talks about the beauty of the surroundings, including the mountains and forests, and the independent spirit of the watchmakers there. Sylvain also mentions the helpfulness of the watchmaking community and their willingness to share tricks and tools. It is clear that he feels a deep gratitude to be part of such a creative and supportive environment. This conversation explores the experience of being a watchmaker and the creative process involved, emphasizing the uniqueness and satisfaction of creating something tangible. Sylvain’s workshop that specializes in creating unique and innovative timepieces. He emphasizes the importance of balance and harmony in his work, and how he strives to create something different and unique. Sylvain also talks about his future projects and his love for creating and experimenting with mechanical devices. You can find Sylvain on his website and @horlogerie_sylvain_pinaud Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

Vianney Halter has been creatively, financially, and spiritually independent as a watchmaker since he made the Antiqua. I caught up with him at the AHCI in Geneva during Watches & Wonders week to discuss Vianney's journey in the watchmaking industry and his decision to start his own company. Vianney shares his experiences working with François-Paul Journe and the challenges he faced as an independent creator. We talk about the importance of independent watchmaking and the unique stories behind these brands. Vianney discusses his journey as an independent watchmaker and the meaning of independent watchmaking. He shares how he started his career by chance and became hooked on watchmaking. Vianney talks about the challenges of being an independent watchmaker and the importance of selling his work to survive. He also highlights the role of the internet in making it easier to share his creations and connect with people around the world.  Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

Kari Voutilainen discusses his new tourbillon watch inspired by his pocket watch from 30 years ago. He talks about the joys and challenges of creating the design and making all the pieces by hand. The dial layout is unique, with an ellipse shape and a small second at 5 o'clock. The watch is part of a limited series with customizable colors and guilloche patterns. Kari's workshop has 37 people, including watchmakers, decorators, and support staff. They currently produce around 60-70 watches per year and have plans to expand their workshop and increase production.Takeaways Kari Voutilainen's new tourbillon watch is inspired by his pocket watch from 30 years ago. The dial layout of the watch is unique, with an ellipse shape and a small second at 5 o'clock. Kari sees the tourbillon is a nice function in the watch that increases its accuracy, when done correctly. Kari's workshop has 37 people and currently produces around 60-70 watches per year. They have plans to expand their workshop and increase production. Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

I have to admit, coming into Geneva Watch Week I was jaded. I was burnt out on the watch industry. I was feeling uninspired. In fact, the long winter of no new releases that I wrote about in my What’s Changing in Collecting in 2024 even caught me up. Landing in Geneva on Monday morning, I was prepared to be uninspired by releases during Watches & Wonders and the entire Watch Week.But then, everything changed. Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe

The novelties from Watches and Wonders and Geneva Watch Week left us feeling a little uninspired, but we are focused on the trends and highlights of the event. My guest, Paul Blandofrd, and I discuss the evolution rather than revolution that we saw this week, with brands making changes to their lineups and focusing on dial swaps and material changes. We are also seeing peak trend towards smaller case sizes and an increase in gem setting. For us, highlights include the DeBethune DB28 XS Purple Rain, as well as the Fleming watch and the Urwerk Spacetime Blade. This week was as much about the watches as it was about catching up with friends across the industry. Takeaways The watch industry is experiencing an evolution rather than a revolution, with brands making changes to their lineups and focusing on dial swaps and material changes. There is a trend towards smaller case sizes and gem setting. The DB28 XS Purple Rain from De Bethune, the Fleming watch, and the URWERK Spacetime Blade were standout watches at the event. OnlyWatch is back in May and we cannot wait to see what the event brings!Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Overview of Watches and Wonders at Geneva Watch Week 04:26 Standout Watches: DB28 XS Purple Rain, Fleming, and Urwerk Spacetime Blade 11:41 Reflections on Geneva Watch Week and Looking Forward Get full access to Idea 33 at idea33.substack.com/subscribe