Forward Momentum

What's happening watch fans? It's taken me a long time to get out a GWD reaction podcast - simply because there wasn't that much to get excited about. There weren't many new releases, unlike years past, and that's clearly in reaction to what's happening in the watch market. Instead of being a shot in the arm, I actually GWD has proven to serve as a community event and an event that brings collectors into the watch industry. I asked my friend Baudouin van Es from Tourbillon Watch to provide some additional details on the event. I appreciate his insights and his willingness to share his thoughts. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

I should have realized this was episode 33, but I forgot! Welcome back watch fans, Geneva Watch Days is two days away, so I guess that means my summer break is over and it’s back top bringing you updates on the watch industry and independent watchmaking.This week I do a preview of what’s coming at Geneva Watch Days, what it signals in the market, and what to expect as the fall opener for the watch industry begins this week in Geneva.GWD kicks off the fall auction season with the charity auction that benefits the Geneva Watchmaking School and auctions will follow in Hong Kong, Geneva, and New York. GWD is really the official end of summer and brings everyone together in Geneva.There’s a lot to look forward to, but I think the response to this show will be telling about what is really happening in the industry. Will watch brands push the boundaries or remain conservative - we’ll know later this week.Stay tuned for the follow up show this week with reports from the field, reactions, and my response to the new releases. And for those of you asking for the SR-71 speed check story, here it is! This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

What's happening, watch fans? I am excited to bring you the second episode of the MB&F Tales from the Tribe podcast in this special interlude that features me! I was honored to be asked by Max to participate in the podcast and to be the second episode. What a joy to share some time with Max and the team, and I hope you all enjoy the episode. You can find MB&F Tales From the Tribe on your podcast platform of choice!This second episode of our series features Todd Searle. Todd defines himself as a dreamer, which is the best way to talk about him. He is so passionate about artisanal watchmaking that he left everything behind to live fully in his passion, becoming one of the main directors of watchmaking documentaries in the world. Fierce protector of the spirit of entrepreneurship, he is the author of “32 Regrets : A Guide to Reclaiming Creativity”, where he talks about entrepreneurs who have successfully turned their life’s passion into self sustaining ventures, including Maximilian Büsser.In this episode, Todd talks about failure as a major key to success, his love at first sight for artisanal watches, his passion for the history of Swiss watchmaking and most of all, about creativity as a major driver in his life.----Tales From The Tribe is an MB&F creation, hosted by Maximilian Büsser. Production : Lacmé Studios & Converge - Author : Hugo Baiardi - Direction : Josh Vardey - Mix : Ben Auriel - Original Soundtrack : Pablo Altar-  Graphics : Maxime Schertenleib. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

This is a special Forward Momentum interlude to bring you the MB&F Tales From the Tribe Podcast.This first episode of our series features Wen Hsieh. He was, until recently, a managing partner at Kleiner Perkins, one of the world's most prominent venture capital firms in Silicon Valley, he's an expert at fostering tech innovations through startups, and he just started his own Hardtech VC firm Matter Venture Partners. Maximilian Büsser says that meeting him is one of the high points of his last couple of years, because as successful as Wen is as an entrepreneurial venture capitalist, he still cultivates a little touch of madness in everything he does. In this episode, we’ll talk about Wen’s childhood in the Amazon jungle living like a native Indian kid, Google’s historic first fundraise, the power of imagination in his daily life, his willingness to find work life balance as a busy venture capitalist, and finally the dream he wishes to achieve in the year to come.----Tales From The Tribe is an MB&F creation, hosted by Maximilian Büsser. Production : Lacmé Studios & Converge - Author : Hugo Baiardi - Direction : Josh Vardey - Mix : Ben Auriel - Original Soundtrack : Pablo Altar-  Graphics : Maxime Schertenleib. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

What's happening, watch fans? I am back with a quick interlude to share the MB&F Tales From the Tribe podcast. Max and team asked me to be a guest on the show in Episode 2, and I am honored to be featured on the show alongside Wen Hsieh. Please enjoy these two episodes of Tales From the Tribe, and you can find their show in your podcast player of choice.----To Maximilian Büsser, founder of MB&F, watchmaking is art, but most of all, it’s a mindset, a journey. The history of watchmaking is filled with adventurers - dreamers, engineers, artists who will each in their own way contribute to a better world. The watchmaking journey is first and foremost about very special individuals. Some are rebels and mavericks and most have a little touch of madness…Over the years, MB&F has united around the brand a collectors’ circle called “The Tribe”, who are each in their own way adventurers. In this podcast, you’ll discover their amazing lives, what drives their creativity and what feeds their passion for watchmaking. Welcome to Tales from the Tribe, the MB&F’s Podcast.----Tales From The Tribe is an MB&F creation, hosted by Maximilian Büsser. Production : Lacmé Studios & Converge - Author : Hugo Baiardi - Direction : Josh Vardey - Mix : Ben Auriel - Original Soundtrack : Pablo Altar-  Graphics : Maxime Schertenleib. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

In Part I of our Gerald Charles episode I was joined by Franco and Federico Ziviani of Gerald Charles, Alex Kats of Geneva Seal in Chicago, @Jardins_des_rois, and @gregwatchman for a chat on the brand, building on the legacy of Gerald Genta, and the future of design at Gerald Charles.In Part II, we return well fed thanks to GT Prime Steakhouse, but return with special guests Evan Turner and Andre Iguodala, and Charles Taylor to talk more in depth about Gerald Charles, and honestly, more about what make watches interesting.We discuss the design and features of the Gerald Charles lineup, including gem set watches and the Maestro GC Sport. We also talk about the inspiration behind the brand and the importance of storytelling. The future of Gerald Charles includes expanding their collection with more complications and maintaining their focus on limited production. They also hint at a possible extension of the tennis collection and potential future collaborations with other sports, such as Formula 1.I’ll apologize in advance (again) for the sound quality - we had a rough time passing mics around the table and resorted to an omnidirectional mic for some of the channels.Chapters00:00 Introduction to Forward Momentum and Independent Watchmaking01:44 Exploring Gem Set Watches and Tennis04:02 The Future of Gerald Charles08:25 Fashion and Style in London14:38 The Design and Features of Gerald Charles Watches15:36 The Future of Gerald Charles: Complications and Limited Production19:11 Closing Remarks and Shoutouts This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

What's happening, watch fans? I am back with another episode in my live collection. I have really enjoyed traveling to and getting to meet with brands, retailers, and collectors, and having the opportunity to record these episodes in person. In this episode of Forward Momentum, my guests are Franco Ziviani and Federico Ziviani of Gerald Charles, and we are joined by Alex Kats of Geneva Seal, JDR, and Gregwatchman. We discuss the history and legacy of the brand, the importance of preserving Gerald Genta's vision, and the passion and emotion behind their watches. From a retailer and collector side, we discuss the versatility and wearability of Gerald Charles watches, the craftsmanship and engineering behind their designs, and the familial nature of the brand. We touch on the gem set and sapphire pieces launched at Watches and Wonders, highlighting the brand's commitment to creating colorful and pleasurable timepieces.Takeaways Gerald Charles is a brand that is deeply rooted in the history and legacy of Gerald Genta, and the Ziviani family is committed to preserving his vision. The passion and emotion behind Gerald Charles watches are what make them truly special and unique. The brand focuses on creating versatile and wearable timepieces that can be worn in various settings. Craftsmanship and engineering are key aspects of Gerald Charles watches, with a strong emphasis on functionality and precision. The gem set and sapphire watches launched at Watches and Wonders showcase the brand's commitment to creating colorful and pleasurable timepieces.Key Moments00:00 Introduction to Forward Momentum and Gerald Charles01:16 The History and Legacy of Gerald Charles07:24 Passion and Emotion in Watchmaking13:20 Versatility and Wearability of Gerald Charles Watches14:35 JDR weighs in18:00 Gregwatchman weighs in18:30 The new Masterlink Collection25:53 Colorful and Pleasurable: The Gem Set and Sapphire Watches26:20 The tennis collection (& how Alex's allocation might be decided). 27:30 - Why thin watches? This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

This week I caught up with Christopher Daaboul of EsperLuxe in his space inside Date & Time in Boston. Chris and I caught up live in the boutique, which was a fantastic atmosphere and Chris shares his journey in the watch industry, from working with his father in wholesale distribution to becoming a retailer of independent watchmakers. We discuss the significance of independent watchmaking, the diversity of the watch industry, and the emotional connection of collecting. We speak about his favorite brands, his toughest moments, and the need for the world to understand how special these independent brands and watchmakers really are. Chapters00:00 Introduction and Background in Watch Industry03:17 Transition from Wholesale to Retail06:39 The Birth of Esperlux and the Proof of Concept Year09:29 Five-Year Anniversary and Milestones in Watch Retailing This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

This week it is my extreme pleasure to welcome Niels Eggerding to Forward Momentum. Niels is the CEO of Frederique Constant, part of the Citizen Holdings Group. I've wanted to talk to Niels since our panel discussion at Watches & Wonders 2023 on the Frederique Constant Monolithic Oscillator. The brand delivers innovation and incredible watchmaking at a very attainable price point, offering 33 in house movements in addition to their ETA movement powered watches. Niels discusses the success of Watches and Wonders, the shift in Frederique Constant's product offerings, and the brand's ethos of offering fair-priced, high-quality watches. He also talks about the challenges the brand faces, such as supply chain issues and finding skilled watchmakers. Niels shares his passion for craftsmanship and his vision for the future of Frederique Constant, including potential future watches and his desire to keep innovating with his team.Takeaways Watches and Wonders was a success for Frederique Constant The brand has shifted its product offerings to more entry-level and volume-driven watches Challenges include supply chain issues and finding skilled watchmakers The brand's ethos is to offer fair-priced, high-quality watches Niels is passionate about craftsmanship and innovation The future of Frederique Constant includes potential collaborations and innovative watch designsChapters00:00 Introduction and Weather at Watches and Wonders01:56 Shifting Product Offerings03:46 Challenges in the Industry06:07 The Ethos of Frederic Constant09:54 Passion for Craftsmanship and Innovation This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

In this episode, Stephen McDonnell is back for Round Two to discuss his recent projects, including his experience at Dubai Watch Week and his insights on watch innovation. We explore the inspiration behind the MB&F LM Sequential EVO and the fascinating integration of vintage sports timing into modern watch design.Stephen's passion for vintage motorcycles, especially Norton, shines through as he discusses his ongoing restoration project. Throughout our conversation, we highlight the importance of relatable human stories in the world of watchmaking.Stephen shares the journey of pitching the sequential chronograph idea to MB&F and the positive response it received. He delves into the technical challenges faced and the crucial role of geometry in the design process. Stephen also shares the ups and downs, from a disastrous prototype stage to the eventual success achieved through nine months of incremental improvements.We explore topics like the dynamic effects of high-speed movements, the challenge of inertia in the clutch, and the emotional toll of watchmaking. Stephen reflects on the significance of the LM Sequential EVO winning the GPHG and how it has personally impacted his life.Finally, we touch on Stephen's fascination with John Harrison's clocks and get a glimpse into his exciting future projects. Tune in to hear the captivating journey of innovation and passion in the world of watchmaking!Takeaways Stephen has been working on finishing projects with MB&F and has started a new project with them as well. Stephen gave a talk at Dubai Watch Week titled 'The Trials and Tribulations of Watch Innovation' that received positive feedback and resonated with a wide audience. The Sequential EVO was inspired by the challenge of integrating vintage sports timing solutions into a single watch. Stephen is passionate about vintage motorcycles, particularly Norton, and is currently restoring one in his garage. Synchronizing the chronograph in the Sequential One watch was a major challenge for Stephen. It took nine months of incremental improvements to solve the problem. The dynamic effect of high-speed movements and the challenge of inertia in the clutch were key factors in the chronograph's performance. The emotional toll of watchmaking, especially when faced with difficult challenges, can be significant. Stephen is interested in John Harrison's clocks and has a fascination with master clocks for future projects.Chapters00:00 Introduction and Plans for Watches and Wonders01:10 Stephen's Recent Projects03:42 Stephen's Experience at Dubai Watch Week05:13 Stephen's Talk on Watch Innovation06:27 The Importance of Relatable Human Stories09:01 The Inspiration for the Sequential EVO14:29 The Story Behind the Sequential EVO23:20 Stephen's Interest in Vintage Motorcycles25:39 Stephen's Norton Motorcycle Restoration26:16 The Challenges of Watchmaking28:31 Pitching the Idea to MB&F33:02 Designing the Sequential Chronograph36:27 The Internally Dual Vertical Clutch41:42 Overcoming Technical Limitations44:24 CAD Design Process47:29 Challenges in Building the Prototype52:21 Prototype Tool Disaster54:33 Catastrophic Prototype Failure56:18 The Challenge of Synchronizing the Chronograph58:04 Incremental Improvements in the Sequential Chronograph59:09 The Dynamic Effect of High-Speed Movements01:00:32 The Challenge of Inertia in the Clutch01:03:30 Testing and Solving the Chronograph Problem01:05:25 The Impact of the Chronograph Challenge01:06:16 The Recognition and Price of the Sequential One01:07:49 The Emotional Toll of Watchmaking01:10:49 The Personal Significance of the Sequential One01:14:25 The Significance of John Harrison's Clocks01:16:01 Stephen's Interest in Master Clocks01:18:00 Possible Future Projects01:18:28 Closing RemarksThe book we mention about John Harrison is called Longitude: The True Story of a Lone Genius Who Solved the Greatest Scientific Problem of His Time by Dava Sobel. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

I caught up with Felix Baumgartner of URWERK during Geneva Watch Week. We caught up on the SpaceTime Blade, the UR-230 launched at Dudai Watch Week, and the recently released UR-100 Lightspeed. We speak about how URWERK's watches help you see and feel our palce in the universe, and how URWERK is a singularity in watchmaking. Their design is so focused on the end-user and so deeply philosophical, that it is hard to understand their product without hearing Felix and Martin describe it, because everything is there for a reason, and those reasons are deeply rooted in the history of time, clockmaking, and human history. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

Sylvain Pinaud and I discuss his journey in independent watchmaking and the unique atmosphere in Sainte-Croix, where he is based. He talks about the beauty of the surroundings, including the mountains and forests, and the independent spirit of the watchmakers there. Sylvain also mentions the helpfulness of the watchmaking community and their willingness to share tricks and tools. It is clear that he feels a deep gratitude to be part of such a creative and supportive environment. This conversation explores the experience of being a watchmaker and the creative process involved, emphasizing the uniqueness and satisfaction of creating something tangible. Sylvain’s workshop that specializes in creating unique and innovative timepieces. He emphasizes the importance of balance and harmony in his work, and how he strives to create something different and unique. Sylvain also talks about his future projects and his love for creating and experimenting with mechanical devices. You can find Sylvain on his website and @horlogerie_sylvain_pinaud This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

Vianney Halter has been creatively, financially, and spiritually independent as a watchmaker since he made the Antiqua. I caught up with him at the AHCI in Geneva during Watches & Wonders week to discuss Vianney's journey in the watchmaking industry and his decision to start his own company. Vianney shares his experiences working with François-Paul Journe and the challenges he faced as an independent creator. We talk about the importance of independent watchmaking and the unique stories behind these brands. Vianney discusses his journey as an independent watchmaker and the meaning of independent watchmaking. He shares how he started his career by chance and became hooked on watchmaking. Vianney talks about the challenges of being an independent watchmaker and the importance of selling his work to survive. He also highlights the role of the internet in making it easier to share his creations and connect with people around the world.  This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

Kari Voutilainen discusses his new tourbillon watch inspired by his pocket watch from 30 years ago. He talks about the joys and challenges of creating the design and making all the pieces by hand. The dial layout is unique, with an ellipse shape and a small second at 5 o'clock. The watch is part of a limited series with customizable colors and guilloche patterns. Kari's workshop has 37 people, including watchmakers, decorators, and support staff. They currently produce around 60-70 watches per year and have plans to expand their workshop and increase production.Takeaways Kari Voutilainen's new tourbillon watch is inspired by his pocket watch from 30 years ago. The dial layout of the watch is unique, with an ellipse shape and a small second at 5 o'clock. Kari sees the tourbillon is a nice function in the watch that increases its accuracy, when done correctly. Kari's workshop has 37 people and currently produces around 60-70 watches per year. They have plans to expand their workshop and increase production. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

I have to admit, coming into Geneva Watch Week I was jaded. I was burnt out on the watch industry. I was feeling uninspired. In fact, the long winter of no new releases that I wrote about in my What’s Changing in Collecting in 2024 even caught me up. Landing in Geneva on Monday morning, I was prepared to be uninspired by releases during Watches & Wonders and the entire Watch Week.But then, everything changed. This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

The novelties from Watches and Wonders and Geneva Watch Week left us feeling a little uninspired, but we are focused on the trends and highlights of the event. My guest, Paul Blandofrd, and I discuss the evolution rather than revolution that we saw this week, with brands making changes to their lineups and focusing on dial swaps and material changes. We are also seeing peak trend towards smaller case sizes and an increase in gem setting. For us, highlights include the DeBethune DB28 XS Purple Rain, as well as the Fleming watch and the Urwerk Spacetime Blade. This week was as much about the watches as it was about catching up with friends across the industry. Takeaways The watch industry is experiencing an evolution rather than a revolution, with brands making changes to their lineups and focusing on dial swaps and material changes. There is a trend towards smaller case sizes and gem setting. The DB28 XS Purple Rain from De Bethune, the Fleming watch, and the URWERK Spacetime Blade were standout watches at the event. OnlyWatch is back in May and we cannot wait to see what the event brings!Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Overview of Watches and Wonders at Geneva Watch Week 04:26 Standout Watches: DB28 XS Purple Rain, Fleming, and Urwerk Spacetime Blade 11:41 Reflections on Geneva Watch Week and Looking Forward This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

Today I welcome URWERK Co-founder and head of design at URWERK, Martin Frei as my guest on Forward Momentum. Martin is a wealth of knowledge on the philosophical thinking and design at the root of URWERK. He has created and amazing design language at URWERK that puts the humans and collectors at the center of their design. We begin our discussion with the UR-230, URWERK’s latest release from Dubai Watch Week and the evolution of the 200 series. We talk about one of my biggest questions about the watch: why is there no power reserve indication of any kind on a watch that can be made fully manual?We then discuss the future of the 200 series, and the deeply philosophical side of watchmaking, and Martin’s belief that the power reserve indication is an indication of how much you love your watch. We spoke about how URWERK has a current focus on chronometry and how that focus may change in the future. We finished our conversation with a deep dive into what independent watchmaking means to Martin.This was a great discussion and I hope you enjoy it!1:57 - the UR-2302:30 - The evolution of the UR-200 Series9:38 - Urwerk Watches are Evolution14:00 - The UR-230 Winding System and protection Mechanism18:54 - The Turbine and airflow controls on the UR-200 series27:18 - Why there is no power reserve indication on the UR-23031:10 - Where is the 200 Series Going35:20 - The Power Reserve Indication is the indication of how much you love an object38:30 - The future of URWERK40:00 - Focused on the chronometry side of watchmaking43:00 - What does independent watchmaking mean to you?46:00 - Independence is a Luxury46:30 - Do you feel a need to protect watchmaking?48:14 - What’s one thing you wish people knew about the watch industry?51:52 - Where can people find you This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

Today’s guest is someone who thinks differently about the watch and the watch industry; none other than the founder of Ressence, Benoît Mintiens. Benoît is an industrial designer who has worked on trains, planes, and firearms. As a generalist at an industrial design consultancy, Benoît had the opportunity to work on so many different products and projects that have inspired and influenced his design language at Ressence. Benoît is not a watchmaker. He is an industrial designer, and this has given him fresh eyes on the watch. He took away the crown, the hands, and the dial. He wanted to find an organic way to tell time that is intuitive, and would be a product that would be designed today if no watches existed prior to Ressence. He is incredibly passionate about watchmaking, considers every watch a miracle, and is a humble and interesting guy who clearly thinks deeply about design. I hope you enjoyed the show, please leave me a rating, refer a friend, and consider signing up for my newsletter. You can find Ressence at: https://ressencewatches.com/Time callouts: 2:30 - Design, Benoît’s Background, and design 7:00 - The Development of Ressence 10:00 - Case Design philosophy, making something that feels natural and like it is a part of you.  14:07 - Completely redesigning a watch for the 21st century 15:00 You can always evolve and get better  17:54 - How you define independent watchmaking & influences 20:45- Respect for other watchmakers because you go through the same trials and tribulations and why comparison between independent watchmakers and industrialized brand is not realistic 24:53 - How long is the design process for a new Ressence product? 27:00 - Why additive manufacturing (3D Printing) will not be the savior of the watchmaking industry 33:39 - The problem with consulting, and using his creativity in a recurring way 39:00 - Designing a watch and the relationship between wearer and watch. 44:00 - A Product that Benoît would like to design 52:00 - Succession planning and the future of Ressence 56:00 Rapid Fire Round This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com

Maximilian Büsser is the founder and creative director of Maximilian Büsser and Friends, MB&F. It’s a watch brand, a gallery, and a movement to promote independent watchmaking. His brand, MB&F, exists to inspire people to think differently, to inspire people to be more creative, and to inspire people to take risks. MB&F, in a nutshell, exists to create communities around mechanical and kinetic art that happens to tell the time.He’s the philosopher king of watchmaking. I love speaking to Max, because there is always some deep wisdom to take away from a conversation with him. When I was editing this conversation, there is so much discussion of creativity in this episode, it was a joy to listen to. Max has worked in the watch industry for his entire career, has seen it all, and wanted to do things differently.He speaks about how most decisions at MB&F have been knee-jerk reactions to ideas, and how this isn’t the best way to run a company, but he has followed his creativity, his passion, and his ideals, and that has allowed him to be completely comfortable with the process. He’s not just a creative, he’s a gallerist who helps give exhibition space to kinetic and mechanical art, and unlike most CEO’s, he actually responds to people on social media, he’s a pure joy and inspiration. You can find Max, MB&F, and of course, the M.A.D. Gallery on Instagram, and you can visit the MB&F website for more info. Enjoy the conversation! Please leave a rating or a review - it helps the podcast tremendously, and please share this with your family and friends, or anyone who might learn from or enjoy this conversation.  3:30 - Harry Winston Opus Project 27:04 - Opening the M.A.D. Gallery 33:00 - Creating what you believe in 37:00 Building a community and the importance of “The Tribe” 42:12 - Max’s “Why?” behind MB&F 46:00 - Older projects and Ideas 47:00 - The Creative Process, Horological Machine No. 1 50:08 - The Rapid Fire Round 56:56 - Where to find Max & MB&F This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit idea33.substack.com