Strong Mind

Hazel sits down with climber, philosopher, and author Francis Sanzaro for a deep dive on the ego—what it is, how it shows up in climbing and life, and how Zen philosophy offers tools to loosen its grip. From ambition, status, and self-worth to the joy (and traps) of goal-setting, Francis draws on decades of climbing experience and insights from Zen and philosophy. Along the way, they explore how the ego shapes who we are and what it means to have a mind that’s truly free. If you’d like help working on your mindset, check out our free mindset workbook and guided reflection. LinkSign up to our thought of the week here! LinkTimestamps00:00:10 - Intro00:02:40 - Who is Francis Sanzaro, and how did philosophy meet climbing?00:06:22 - What is Zen, really—religion or self-inquiry? 00:00:10 - intro00:09:09 - What does a Zen life look like day to day?00:12:46 - What is the ego, and how does it show up in climbing?00:16:54 - Are we constantly trading ego like currency in social spaces?00:21:13 - Is striving for success draining the joy from climbing?00:24:48 - Does the ego drive our extrinsic motivations?00:30:34 - Can we set goals without becoming attached to outcomes? Can ego be a tool for greatness or is it a trap?00:37:38 - Are top athletes good examples—or cautionary tales?00:44:26 - How does the climbing community shape our sense of worth?00:49:21 - Can we protect ourselves from external judgment and status pressure?00:56:02 - What simple practices can help us observe without reacting?01:01:58 - Should we feel pride—or let it go like any other attachment?01:05:51 - Does letting go of ego mean feeling less—or feeling more?01:08:24 - Would humanity still strive for greatness without ego?01:12:27 - How does it feel to climb with ego versus without it? What does it mean to have a mind that’s truly free?

In this special AMA (Ask Me Anything) episode, Hazel answers listener-submitted questions covering everything from climbing training, risk, and performance, to motherhood, mindset, and identity. Tune in for candid, off-the-cuff responses packed with personal stories, vulnerability, and actionable advice. Sign up for our thought of the week here! LinkTime stamps00:00:10 – Intro 00:02:03 – How old were you when you started climbing, and when did you realise you wanted to get good? 00:04:49 – What’s been the hardest thing about becoming a mum? 00:06:45 – What’s your favourite cam size? 00:07:23 – What’s the best way to train for outdoor climbing indoors, especially with new-school setting styles? 00:08:59 – If today were your last day climbing, what would you do tomorrow? 00:10:04 – What’s been the most unexpected thing about motherhood? 00:11:40 – What’s the best thing about climbing since becoming a mum? 00:12:45 – What are you most looking forward to next as a climber? 00:13:54 – How have you dealt with being a female athlete in a male-dominated sport? 00:20:08 – What would present Hazel say to past Hazel—and vice versa? 00:22:49 – Does fear show up for you as feelings or thoughts? 00:25:50 – How do you balance hard onsights with the risk of a fall that could set you back? 00:27:58 – Is there a lack of info on how to keep weight on your feet? 00:28:55 – Did fear of performance loss postpone you having a baby? 00:31:07 – If you could only choose trad, sport, or bouldering, which would it be? 00:32:22 – What changes have you seen in climbing in the last 10 years? 00:34:14 – What was it like sharing a tent with Alex Honnold in Greenland? 00:35:33 – Why does climbing bring you so much joy? 00:37:05 – What’s your favourite crag in Scotland? 00:37:59 – What are your daily and weekly routines like? 00:40:13 – Do you adapt your training based on your menstrual cycle? 00:40:44 – What was your first trad lead like, and how old were you? 00:41:12 – Will you go back to climbing in Avon Gorge? 00:42:56 – What was your biggest fear around pregnancy and postpartum climbing? 00:43:41 – What’s the weirdest Euro climbing thing you’ve heard of? 00:43:56 – Has climbing ever become an obsession or addiction for you? 00:45:15 – What are your views on encouraging more minorities in climbing? 00:46:50 – Have you ever felt pressure to perform in your career? 00:50:23 – How can someone start learning trad climbing? 00:51:21 – How has your relationship with risk changed since the “place less gear” interview? 00:52:24 – What challenges have you faced in your climbing career, and how did you overcome them? 00:54:01 – How do you balance climbing and caring for your child? 00:55:03 – How do you balance self-compassion with pushing yourself? 00:57:18 – How do you mentally handle not climbing when your baby needs you? 00:57:53 – When did you realise you were bolder than most climbers? 00:59:53 – What are the biggest mental challenges of being a professional climber that people don’t see? 01:01:21 – How do you think your mindset will evolve as you get older? 01:01:55 – How can I support a bouldering partner who fears falling and being watched? 01:03:15 – How did you change your training during pregnancy? 01:04:27 – How did you pick your daughter’s name? 01:04:55 – How can I support my kids in climbing while also growing myself? 01:06:21 – What are your biggest fears now, and how are you working through them? 01:08:05 – Who was your biggest mentor, and what did they teach you? 01:08:31 – Which country has the best climbing? 01:08:48 – What mental strategies did you learn from recovering from a shoulder injury? 01:09:37 – What sport are you worst at? 01:09:49 – How can I train if I don’t have a partner? 01:10:25 – Did you have rectus diastasis postpartum, and was it an issue for bouldering? 01:12:07 – Does sponsorship of privileged athletes impact confidence in those from less affluent backgrounds?

Hazel sits down with Leo and Jess Houlding and their eldest daughter, Freya. They start with Leo’s legendary adventures, expeditions and first ascents, exploring how his mindset and approach to risk have evolved over the years. Then the focus shifts to family life — from climbing El Cap together to powder skiing in Japan — and what it means to raise resilient, curious, and courageous kids in a world that often prioritises safety above all else.If you’d like help working on your mindset, check out our free mindset workbook and guided reflection. Link Sign up for our thought of the week here! Link00:00:00 – Intro00:05:51 – Why did Leo choose to move back to the UK?00:08:56 – Reflecting on his bold climbing days: how does Leo feel about his past now?00:24:23 – Balancing passion and profession: what motivates Leo today?00:31:17 – What advice would Leo give to people who feel stuck in life?00:35:21 – Leo’s biggest fear for his kids00:38:33 – What have Leo’s kids taught him about fear?00:41:40 – Getting the challenge level right for children00:49:49 – Balancing psychological safety and resilience in parenting00:57:01 – Kids and social media: where do they stand?01:06:40 – What it’s really like having an adventurous family lifestyle01:13:37 – Meet Jess Houlding01:17:25 – Making decisions together as parents: how Leo and Jess navigate it01:24:36 – How has this parenting approach shaped their kids?01:26:48 – What motivated the Houldings’ year-long family trip?01:31:22 – Meet Freya: Freya’s relationship with fear and her favourite part of the trip

Hazel and Angus sit down with a cup of tea to answer some of our listeners' questions around performance psychology. We discuss topics like flow, performance anxiety, stress and mindset. If you enjoyed this conversation, Strong Mind is about to re-launch the Performance Hacks course, where Hazel, Angus and their team will take you through a journey to learn more about performance psychology and how it can work for you.If you want to secure yourself a place on Performance Hacks, then sign up here to our waiting list as our courses usually sell out fast.If you’d like help working on your mindset check out our free mindset workbook and guided reflection. Click here Sign-up to our “Thought of the week” here!Blog post by Hazel about trying hard. Click here00:01:51 -  Can performance anxiety be completely removed from climbing?00:05:35 -  Is it beneficial to momentarily step away from climbing to better work on our mindset?00:08:45 -  How can we access flow state on demand?00:19:52 -  How often does Hazel climb in a Flow state?00:21:36 -  How can we set goals and simultaneously have no expectations?00:28:26 -  How can we try hard when allostatic load is high?00:35:36 -  How can mindset be organised and used like tools in a box?00:40:17 -  Are there quick ways to achieve flow?00:41:34 -  As a coach or instructor, how do you manage the social pressure of climbing in front of students or peers? 00:51:26 -  Performance Hacks course 

WARNING, this podcast mentions suicide and mental health. What does it mean to be a man in 2025 — especially in the world of climbing, adventure, and risk? In this episode, we dive into masculinity, vulnerability, emotions, mental health and fatherhood with Aldo Kane and Matt Pycroft. Aldo is a former Royal Marine, adventurer, TV presenter and author. Matt is a climber, adventure filmmaker and podcast host. From redefining strength to raising kids, this is an honest look at what masculinity means today and what we’re striving for when it comes to men’s health. If you are having a hard time, you can get help. findahelpline.com will direct you to your country's helpline.If you’d like help working on your mindset check out our free mindset workbook and guided reflection. Link Don't forget to sign up to our "Thought of the week". LinkTimestamps00:00:00 – Intro: why this conversation matters00:05:43 – Aldo & Matt on what masculinity means today00:11:40 – Can we talk about masculinity without tearing it down?00:22:19 – Men and mental health: what’s really going on?00:36:39 – Male-dominated spaces: problem or part of the solution?00:44:00 – What do healthy men’s spaces actually look like?00:50:41 – How the media frames modern masculinity00:57:47 – Struggling as a man? Here’s what might help01:11:25 – The role of women: support, challenge, or both?01:19:10 – Are all men bad? And is chivalry just polite misogyny?

Shauna Coxsey is one of the most decorated climbers of her generation, but this conversation goes far beyond competition results. We explore her journey through high-performance sport, injury, identity, mental health, and motherhood. Shauna shares her experiences with anxiety, disordered eating, and the often unseen challenges of life as a professional athlete, including supporting her husband through depression, being dropped by her main sponsor and coming back postpartum. It’s an honest and thoughtful conversation about values, positivity, life-philosophy, vulnerability, and what it means to stay true to yourself, on and off the wall.Check out our free mindset workbook and guided reflection here.If you want to join our Thought of the week, follow this linkMental health helpline for your country findahelpine.comTimestamps:00:02:22 - Hazel’s take on some of the themes in the conversation 00:04:27 - Shauna’s climbing beginnings00:08:27 - Choosing the path of a professional athlete00:14:14 - Are you naturally competitive?00:15:39 - Balancing personal motivation in competition00:20:18 - When winning isn’t enough00:26:40 - Shauna's doubts about competition climbing00:28:16 - Injuries and the body’s messages00:32:07 - The Olympic mindset00:38:10 - The tension between performance and well-being00:40:56 - Speaking out about mental health on social media00:51:06 - Shauna and Ned’s story and relationship00:58:24 - Struggles with depression and anxiety and sharing these topics publicly01:05:07 - Managing anxiety today01:11:04 - Mental health perspectives and real life01:20:19 - Eating disorders in climbing01:36:36 - Motherhood01:45:32 - Adidas dropping Shauna

In this episode, I sit down with Barbara Zangler ( Babsi) and Jacopo Larcher to learn more about their ascent of Freerider on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. They both shared the same goal of flashing the route, however, only Babsi managed to achieve this, making her the first person to have ever flashed El Capitain. Hearing the story from both sides was interesting and unique. We discuss their motivations for climbing this route, what the road to get there looked like and what they both learned from the experience.There is a movie about their ascents on the Black Diamond website, you can follow this link to check it out! Link to video If you want to join our Thought of the week, follow this link.We also have a free performance psychology webinair you can sign up for today, just follow this link.- Timestamps - 00:00:00 - Intro and updates.00:06:24 - When did you both decide to commit your lives 100% to climbing?00:14:53 - Partnership and their climbing journey.00:21:27 - Strategic approach to climbing throughout the year.00:24:10 - Struggles of the first time climbing in Yosemite.00:34:04 - When did flashing freerider become a goal for you?00:41:25 - Did this goal have more meaning to you compared to others?00:48:46- How did you manage the pressure?00:54:15 - Jacopo’s fall on the boulder problem.00:57:25 - Babsi’s flow experience on the boulder problem.01:01:10 - Jacopo on supporting Babsi and managing his emotions after he failed.01:06:34 - Jacopo’s inner critic vs. practising self-kindness.01:09:50 - Babsi’s reflections after the climb.01:14:46 - Is happiness tied to achievement?01:19:27 - What lessons have you both learned from this journey?

WARNING - we do talk about eating disorders in this podcast. In this episode, Hazel speaks with Emily Harrington about her life as a professional climber from when she was a kid competing to now as a mother herself. We talk about how she started climbing and how she fell into competition climbing. We talk about her struggles with having an eating disorder at a young age but how she recovered from it and how she thinks about it now. We talk about how she's stayed motivated throughout her climbing career and how she's managed performance anxiety and stress around big goals. We also talk about social media and external pressure. Then we finally talk about motherhood, how she's taken to motherhood so far and how she thinks about risk as a mother.

In this episode, I speak with Africa Brooke. Africa is a consultant, coach, strategist, and speaker with a unique focus: tackling self-sabotage and self-censorship. We talk about Africa’s path to working in this field, from her childhood in Zimbabwe and her journey with recovering from alcoholism. We talk about how to rebuild confidence, self-worth and self-trust even when you feel ashamed of things you’ve done in your past. We talk about taking personal responsibility and the difference between being a victim and victimhood. We talked about why self-censorship is such an important personal and social phenomenon right now and how insidious it is within the human psyche. We talk about social and emotional risk and the cost to self-trust when we lose our authenticity. Africa works with visible people in the public eye but I think that self-sabotage and self-censorship show up in all of us in different ways and each of us could learn a lot from this conversation.

In this episode, Hazel speaks with Allison Vest about her struggles and progress with mental training in climbing. They talk about how she found competitions hard psychologically and how some of those struggles have carried over to outdoor bouldering which is her main focus. They talk about the gains she's made with her mindset recently and the work she still has left to do. They talk about her recent sends and the psychological tools she used for those sends. They talk about how to balance the desire for the outcome with being focused on optimal performance in the moment. Join our new online course Performance Hacks: https://go.strongmindclimbing.com/performancehacks

In this episode, Angus Kille interviews Hazel about how to leverage mental training for performance and their course Performance Hacks. 🧠 Watch our FREE Performance Hacks training here

In this episode, we talk a lot about breath! We look at the physical and mental benefits from 2 different perspectives with 2 experts in the field. Join the waitlist for our new course Performance Hacks here https://go.strongmindclimbing.com/early-bird Dr. Michael Melnychuk is a neuroscientist and climber who has conducted seminal research on brain plasticity and how the breath and brain activity are interrelated. He has engaged in meditation and breathing techniques since he was a child, and his scientific work is heavily influenced by his practice. He has also been a rock climber for 30 years and suffered a near-fatal fall while free soloing, and because of this has a keen personal interest in Hazel’s methods which leverage the breath and mind control to overcome fear while climbing. Dr. Sundar Balasubramanian is a cell biology researcher from the Department of Radiation Oncology at the Medical University of South Carolina, USA, and is a renowned yoga researcher specializing in breathing exercises. He is the Founder & CEO of PranaScience Institute and the Yoga Specialist at the MUSC Health & Wellness Institute. Sundar’s Yoga research provided evidence linking salivary biomarkers and Yogic breathing (also called Pranayama). He studies how breathing practices could promote well-being in health and disease. His current studies include testing a Yogic breathing app for cancer survivorship funded by the National Institutes of Health (NIH). He has developed several tools to improve the practice of Yogic breathing for employee wellness, cancer survivorship, ageing, and scleroderma.  Sundar is the author of four books and several book chapters and his popular TEDx talk has over 1 million views. Jiri Balas' fascinating study on hormonal response to potential fall distance (adrenaline, catecholamines, skipping bolts): https://repository.derby.ac.uk/download/c8973104899db7691ac8c30cf3465bbb48d572e7c222b8ec1eb529873b142ab7/209907/Balas_2016_Hormonal_response_during_climbing_accepted_manuscript.pdf Kox's study of Wim Hof Technique on e-coli toxemia challenge; examines many of the same markers as Balas (above) and also cytokines (pro/anti-inflammatory markers): https://www.pnas.org/doi/pdf/10.1073/pnas.1322174111 Decreased blood lactate following respiratory training: https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Urs-Boutellier/publication/13199745_Decreased_exercise_blood_lactate_concentrations_after_respiratory_endurance_training_in_humans/links/02e7e52cb02331649b000000/Decreased-exercise-blood-lactate-concentrations-after-respiratory-endurance-training-in-humans.pdf Increased lactate (anaerobic) capacity with pranayama: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/321338797_Effects_of_yoga_Pranayama_on_lung_function_and_lactate_kinetics_in_sedentary_adults_at_intermediate_altitude 1. Mr. Feelgood magazine's recognition as seen here: https://mrfeelgood.com/articles/the-worlds-leading-breathwork-experts
 2. Our new app called Humma, for improving breathing with humming: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pranascience.humma

Lor Sabourin is a professional climber, mental training coach, and Training Leader for the Warrior’s Way, an organization that uses climbing-based mental training to optimize performance and improve mental health. Lor’s work is trauma-informed and they have just finished a Masters's degree in mental health counselling with an emphasis on somatic therapy and adventure-based counselling. Hazel and Lor cover many areas with the main focus being mental training and Lor's work. They cover psychological risk, trauma, working with trauma and somatic therapy, resilience (and how climbing fosters resilience), how they define success in climbing and how we can change what success means to us, how to manage failure, self-worth, and self-love among many other topics.

This is the second part of a conversation Hazel had with Aiden Roberts about mastery, flow and motivation in high-level bouldering. Check out part 1 first if you haven't listened to it yet.

In this conversation between Hazel and Jeff Charno. Jeff is the founder and host of Being & Doing online conferences where he has interviewed more than 100 spiritual teachers, scientists, creativity gurus and thought leaders. They talk about awakening from our narrative egoic selves, spontaneity and connecting with an uncensored version of ourselves, flow, intuition, how we connect with our deeper freer selves and bringing awareness to how crazy our internal world looks sometimes.

In this episode, Hazel speaks with Cameron Norsworthy (PhD in Flow and director of the Flow Centre) about flow. This conversation is a little bit of a deeper dive into flow. Hazel gets Cameron to challenge some of the misconceptions and common doubts about flow. They also talk about barriers to flow, how flow differs from other areas of sports psychology, how we can access flow by learning more about it and whether accessing flow is more about upskilling or removing barriers to flow. How finding flow in life doesn't have to just be about performance but also more of a lifestyle or life philosophy.

In this podcast, Hazel speaks with musician, researcher and lecturer in philosophy of mind Lauri Jarvilehto. This is a more academic conversation but there are also practical takeaways. They talk about what intuition is, creativity and intuition, and the difference between system 1 (non-conscious mind) and system 2 (conscious mind). What processes in climbing require systems 1 and 2 and how expertise allows us to commit to system 1, the difference between skill and conceptualising that skill, how system 2 can distract us (choking in sport), flow and good performances in system 1, the differences and similarities between flow and intuition, pattern recognition, the difference between instinct and intuition, how to better access intuition and flow with this knowledge.

In this episode, Hazel talks to windsurfer Sarah Hauser. Sarah is one of the world's best windsurfers and has the record for the biggest wave ever windsurfed by a woman. In this conversation, Sarah talks about maximising intrinsic motivation, managing fear, mental management tools, hypnotherapy, and flow state among other interesting areas of psychology. If you already know a lot about windsurfing you could skip the first 20 minutes.

This episode was recorded live as a SHAFF (Sheffield adventure film festival) event, so it's a little different in format compared to our other episodes. Hazel talks to Adam about what makes a good climber, flow state, his childhood, motivation, mastery, processes, competitions, outcomes, the problem of under-eating in climbing, big goals and much more. To check out more about what we do head to strongmindclimbing.com

In this episode, Hazel chats with Mike Weeks. Mike is a serial entrepreneur, coach and speaker, specializing in resilience and peak performance for emergency services, police, special forces and elite athletes. After a decade of climbing around the world in full dirtbag style he briefly flirted with celebrity, leading Jack Osbourne up El Capitan for the TV series, Jack Osbourne Adrenaline Junkie, in between climbing various E8’s and falling off of E9’s! Mike currently lives in Bali, Indonesia, where he runs regenerative agriculture projects, restoring polluted rice paddies, cleaning river systems and developing a centre of excellence for farming. When he’s not rescuing far too many stray dogs (six and counting) he surfs whilst dreaming of rock and his next book. He is the author of three books, Un-train Your Brain, Resilience By Design and The little Speck of Life. We talk about Mike's upbringing, how he got out of a poor socioeconomic background through climbing, his TV work with the Osbournes, NLP, placebo, the power of the mind-body connection, sub-conscious processing, hemisphere differences and many other less-discussed areas of psychology.