This article is by Jin Eun-soo and read by an artificial voice.



[ABOUT TOWN]: Hangangro-dong, Yongsan District

Few neighborhoods in Seoul embody Korea's past, present and future as strikingly as Yongsan District - or more precisely, Hangangro-dong, the western side of the neighborhood anchored by Yongsan Station.

A transportation hub since the Japanese colonial era (1910-1945), the longtime home of a sprawling U.S. military base and now the seat of the presidential office, this pocket of the district in central Seoul stands as a living testament to Korea's bittersweet modern history.

But that is only a part of the story.

After the U.S. military began relocating from Seoul, development restrictions in the neighborhood were gradually lifted, prompting a transformation of the area's skyline. High-rise buildings, upscale apartments and corporate headquarters such as HYBE and Amorepacific quickly settled in. What was once an underdeveloped town, compared to its affluent neighborhoods like Hannam-dong, has now become one of Seoul's most coveted real estate zones.

"My building owner, who used to wander around in 3,000-won slippers, now arrives in a Mercedes," one of the restaurant owners in Hangangro-dong who has been in business for 25 years said. "This kind of crowd was unimaginable just 20 years ago."



And Hangangro-dong's transformation is far from over.

In place of the former U.S. military camp, a vast national park is under construction, prompting some to imagine the space might one day rival New York's Central Park or London's Hyde Park.

With the influx of office workers and new residents, a wave of new eateries, cafes and bars has arrived. Some have already filled the alleyways of so-called Yongridan-gil, the very popular - and very crowded - area near Sinyongsan Station, while others are just beginning to pop up along the railway tracks near Yongsan Station.

The newer venues lean into the area's history, retaining low ceilings, weathered walls and creaky doors - all styled in the most deliberately hip way. Visitors must be careful to distinguish renovated spots from longstanding homes of actual residents.

Buzzing on weekdays with office workers and even livelier on weekends with Gen Z visitors and tourists, this lesser-known side of Yongsan rewards those who wander. Korea JoongAng Daily offers a full-day itinerary to help you make the most of it.



A day in this neighborhood ought to start early because there's simply so much to see and do around here. So fueling up with a filling breakfast or brunch is a must.

A reliable choice is Gaetmaeul, known for its handmade kimchi mandu, or Korean dumplings. Available steamed, in soup or in jeongol (Korean-style hot pot), mandu here come in one type only - mildly spicy and filled with fermented kimchi. They are bite-sized rather than the larger ones found elsewhere.

Mandu soup with rice cake, one of its most popular menu items, comes in a refreshingly light, clear broth. In Korea, fans of mandu soup are often split between those who prefer a clear anchovy-kelp broth and those who favor a rich, thick beef broth. Gaetmaeul's version will appeal to the former.

This neighborhood staple opens at 10 a.m. and fills up quickly. Yet despite the lunchtime rush, the staff warmly welcomes solo diners, families with babies and tourists alike. Its signature mandu soup with rice cake cost 13,000 won ($9).



According to the owner, the diner still sees over 200 groups of customers daily. With the neighborhood now under redevelopment, now may be your last chance to experience this piece of old Yongsan.

This diner opens from 10 a.m. and the clear codfish stew for two persons cost 28,000 won.

Explore at your own pace



Start at Amorepacific headquarters, an architectural landmark inspired by Korea's traditional moon jars and designed by world-renowned architect David Chipperfield. While the building houses corporate offices, the lower floors are open to the public and include a museum - currently exhi...