This Episodes Questions:

Brians Questions:

Have been listening to your podcast for awhile now and the more I listen to more questions come to mind. Here is my current one for a walnut waterfall bench I’m working on. The dimensions are approx 58”L x 18”W x 16”D. How should I join a shelf to this bench where the grain flows continuously from the legs up through the bench top? The shelf will also be a glued up panel with the grain running the same direction as the bench top. If I attach the shelf to the inside faces of the legs using a mortise and tenon joint, do I need to account for wood movement? The legs, benchtop, and shelf are all 1.75” thick. I would assume that given they’re all the same thickness and technically the wood grain is in the same direction as the legs, just perpendicular, it would expand and contract together, and I could just glue the tenon. That said I don’t want to guess and hearing Guy talk about furniture exploding has me concerned. If wood movement is a concern then what’s the correct way to account for this movement? Should it be treated like a breadboard end with dowels through the tenons, installed through the bottom of the legs (the shelf sits 2 inches off the ground)? Or would it be better, and stronger, to use floating tenons/Dominos for this joint instead and just not glue the outside dominos and cut them loose to account for the expansion and contraction while gluing the center domino(s)?

Thanks, Chayse Bell

Thanks for the great podcast, I discovered your channel about a month ago and now listen all the time traveling to and from work. I've been woodworking a little over a year now and currently working on a dining table made from ash and have picked up all sorts of pearls that have helped with the glue up, apron design, finishing, etc., so thank you for all that.

This question is directed to Brian, as he has mentioned that his shop is in his basement. I currently work out of my two car garage that I share with my wife's car. We just built the house in 2024 and I'm kicking myself that I didn't insulate the garage. These cold Northern Indiana days are making working in the garage pretty uncomfortable. I know I could just insulate it, but HVAC isn't attached to the garage either so to make it truly comfortable would be a big job/cost. So, Brian, can you share a little more about the layout/design of your basement shop? E.g. was it a room that existed that you converted into the shop or you framed the room specifically for a shop? How do you take extra precautions to make sure your family isn't affected by dust, as this is my primary concern. Obviously, I know of dust collection and dust filters, but it still concerns me to think I'd be working in the basement. Do you have anything you wish you did differently? We have an unfinished basement that is very open, so the sky would be the limit for me in the future before we finish it.

Thanks, Evan

Guys Questions:

Somewhat recently I made a gift for my wife using White oak. I had predetermined that for a finishing schedule I wanted to first apply Danish oil, then seal it with shellac, and minwax performance series varnish for a top coat.

I ran into an issue when I began to finish the piece. Not knowing a thing about wood porosity, I liberally applied watco Danish oil, and as a result I had a big problem with seepage. Now, my research had cautioned me that I would need to keep checking on the piece periodically for the next several hours after application to wipe up any seepage that came up. Even so, you this went on for so long that it became an issue. Two full days after application I was still wiping up seepage. I would wipe the piece down before bed at night, and when I'd check it in the morning there would be spots on the surface that took a considerable amount of effort to buff out. I couldn't keep up with it, and after a few days the surface was covered in spots, which meant that I had to start over. 

As I mentioned previously, I could not find any information online regarding how to deal with this problem. Just to see what would happen, I decided to try aiming a heat gun at the work piece after it had been drying for a couple of hours. This worked phenomenally, and I could not have been more thrilled. Of course the heat didn't dry out the wood any faster or anything, but what it did do was vastly accelerate the seepage process. The oil was rapidly drawn up to the surface of the wood, where I could wipe it away, and after treating both sides in this manner for a total of perhaps 10 minutes it seemed that all of the excess oil had been drawn out. I wiped the work piece down and had no more issues. 

Of, like with any application involving a heat gun, I had to keep it moving, otherwise it would start to bake the spots of oil onto the surface. Anyways, I just thought this was a neat trick that might come in handy with oil finishes if seepage is ever a huge issue. I hope you guys found this interesting. Zach Owens

Hello from Chico, California!

I have recently started listening to y'all's podcast while researching inspiration for reconfiguring and refining my workspace. I thank Guy for highlighting the importance of drawers, I realized that I previously had none.

I am a hobbyist woodworker looking for advice on air filtration for my two car garage shop. It is approximately 3960 cubic feet, 22' x 20' x 9'. While working, the garage door and access door (detached garage with no climate control) is usually open, weather permitting, and tend to have good airflow and supplement with a box fan when needed. I have a Harbor Freight 2hp Dust Collector for my machines, cabinet saw, planer, jointer, and router table and do feel that this my be slighty under powered for my system.

I do notice a fair amount of fine dust suspended in the air after milling operations and breaking down sheet goods on the table saw and a noteable layer of dust across the entire shop. I think that adding an air filter could help reduce fine particulate and could potentially allow me to work with doors shut when it is too hot or too cold.

Do you think that adding an air filter makes a significant addition to air quality or should I look further into optimizing dust collection?

If you feel an air filter is a worthwhile addition, what would you reccomend for an approximately 4,000 cubic foot shop? I have been looking at the WEN 3410 unit due to claimed CFM and cost. I have also contemplated building one with a second hand blower from an old furnace. I am mechanically inclined and competent with electrical. I also feel that timers and variable speeds are not needed.

I would also add that whatever I decide, the garage is detached from the main house and there is a studio above that is rented out to a seperate individual and would like noise and resonance to be kept to a minimum. The only real estate I have available for air filtration is the ceiling.

Thank you for your time. Nick Halverson

Huys Questions:

Longtime listener. Truly enjoy the podcast. I am considering upgrading my table saw to a contractor or cabinet model. The choice are really overwhelming. I get a lot of advice on different brands, phase of motor and should I buy new or used. Any advice appreciated. Greg

I recently bought a small bandsaw mill (Woodmizer LX30) and am becoming an amateur sawyer, exclusively to supply lumber for my own projects.  Once I have dried lumber to an acceptable moisture content, what is the best way to store a few thousand board feet?  My kiln guy says I should store packs of dead-stacked lumber horizontally, wrapped in 6-mil plastic.  That sounds like a pain.  I'd prefer to forgo the plastic and store the lumber horizontally, on edge, in a rack, in my unheated pole barn - which, I should note, sometimes gets a wet floor in heavy rains.  Then I'd bring pieces into my shop for a few days to acclimate before machining.  What do you recommend for long-term lumber storage? Kyle