"We travel on the river but the real traveller is the river, and to understand it one has to make a substantial effort" - Sanjoy Hazarika, author, River Traveller; Journeys on the Tsangpo-Brahmaputra from Tibet to the Bay of Bengal talks to Manjula Narayan about his earliest memory of seeing dolphins dance in the river in Guwahati, following the great stream through Tibet, Arunachal Pradesh, Assam and Bangladesh and the people he met along the way, the Chinese government's plans to build the massive Medog dam that will destroy Tibet's permafrost and its ecological wonders and have a devastating effect on the whole stretch right down to the Bay of Bengal, being chased by pirates, the Ahom kings and their search for the perfect place to grow wet rice, the need for a migration law in South Asia, and the boat clinics that treat people living on the chars of the Brahmaputra 

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