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© 2022 Circle Up Allison Vest and Kyra Condie
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Come Circle Up with Allison Vest and Kyra Condie. This podcast is the perfect length to get you psyched on your way to the gym or during a 30 min workout. Listen to some light hearted and deep diving talks into climbing, motivation, body image, mindset, and more! Great for climbers and non-climbers alike!
29 Episodes
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In this week's episode, Kyra and her mom, Cathy, talk about Cathy's career as an electrical engineer in the biomedical space. Cathy shares some personal stories from when she was in school, the challenges of raising two kids while getting her Master's Degree from the University of Minnesota, and some words of wisdom from her years in a male-dominated industry (much like the climbing world is, or has been). Kyra speaks on some of her experiences and ways she tries to fight the patriarchy with "micro-feminisms".
Welcome to our first episode of Hot Takes! Wondering about socks in your climbing shoes? If climbing a harder grade makes you immune to being a "gumby"? Or have you ever wondered if climbing v15 or getting a sub 5 second time on the speed wall is more impressive? Kyra and Allison share all their personal opinions on lister requested topics!
In this episode Campbell Harrison, future Olympian and World Cup climber from Australia, takes Allison's place alongside Kyra. They talk about competition stresses, imposter syndrome, mental health, training far from home, the trials and tribulations of addressing RED-s in climbing, and their time spent together on the IFSC Athlete commission. They banter about ways they hope to make change as well as their want to be a role model for the future generation.
*TW*: mental health and eating disorders (second half of the episode).
Allison and Kyra tackle the subject of mental and physical plateaus in this week's episode. From how to turn mentally "weak" days into successful sessions and tricks to switch up your training (or when to back off) when you're in a rut.
In this episode Allison takes on an interviewer role and talks to Kyra about her "back story". They cover how Kyra originally found out she had scoliosis, the surgery, the Olympics, and learning to cope with having a form of a disability. Should be interesting for those with and without scoliosis!
Allison and Kyra recap the recent start to the world cup season both with Kyra's attendance at the events and general thoughts about how competitions are run and what could be done better/different in the future. They talk about weather-related delays, the new trends in route-setting, Kyra's attitude at the first competitions of the season, and more!
Kyra and Allison catch up about what they've been doing during their podcasting break. They give insight into some of their life updates and how they use body cues to know when they should back off training or increase training load. They also talk about the pros and cons of using a training journal, what they do instead currently, and the attitude in climbing/sport of glorifying "the grind". They finish up with a fun Q&A with both climbing related and non-climbing related topics.
Kyra and Allison break down everything you need, and didn't need, to know about what has happened thus far on the Road to Paris 2024. Starting with a recap of the excitement and World Championships, they go into a play by play of what happened and who qualified at every Olympic Qualifying Event so far for Sport Climbing.
Kyra and Allison use this episode to talk about the importance of rest days, not only making them ACTUALLY restful, but learning to be ok with taking rest days and knowing that a good rest day is part of a good training plan. They use some of their own experiences with the feelings of overtraining to explain what it feels like and what to look out for. They also talk about how to approach pro climbers at the gym and share some fun anecdotes about the first time they met pro climbers.
Kyra and Allison do a deep dive in this episode into their own emotions and experiences. They both reflect on what has helped them the most during a negative spiral, whatever it was caused by. Many of us tend to be very emotionally invested in our sports performances, so whether it's yourself or your climbing partner, let's figure out how to deal with those intense emotions.
Kyra and Allison use this episode to first answer some fun, non-climbing questions about "who is more likely to"--hopefully giving the listeners a chance to get to know the two of them better. Then, at 10:40, they start answering some of the burning climbing-related questions they've received since the beginning of this podcast.
In this episode, Kyra and Allison talk lightly about a serious topic: the macho culture of climbing, both indoor and out. They share their experiences growing up in male dominated training spaces and how that shaped them to be the climbers and people they are.
Kyra and Allison are both back from their climbing-packed summers and are excited to share with everyone what they've been up to during their recent podcasting hiatus. First they talk about how they make their livings from being a pro climber and then they recap about their respective trips. Allison spent 5 weeks climbing outside in South Africa and Kyra went to the last World Cups and watched the first few athletes punch their tickets to Paris 2024 at World Champs!
In this episode, Kyra and Allison tackle the tricky and taboo topic of eating disorders in climbing and sports in general. They talk from their personal experiences from being in the sport and from each of their unique experiences of struggling or not struggling with their relationship with food.
**Trigger Warning: Eating Disorders**
In this episode, Allison and Kyra share their own thoughts and struggles with fear, both mentally and physically. Starting with the fear of failure in competition then into how to overcome (or not) fear while outdoor bouldering and lead climbing. Hopefully this conversation helps show that fear is a major factor of even a professional climber's struggle with any climb.
Kyra and Allison recap the recent big competition for US competitors: National Team Trials. Allison was a commentator for the livestream of this event while Kyra competed to clinch a spot on the World Cup team this year. After a trying couple years after the Olympics, Kyra was able to implement some big mindset changes and found that curiosity was key for her success at this competition.
Kyra and Allison use this episode to talk about a topic that comes up every month... every month. Periods. As something that 50% of the population deals with on a monthly basis, they try to have an open dialogue about their own trials and troubles that go along with being a professional athlete and the menstrual cycle. Some bonus embarrassing stories are shared by both. Even if you don't get a period yourself--this is a great listen to try and educate yourself on something your loved one/friends/coworkers/training partners go through!
Allison and Kyra talk about their personal experiences with comparing themselves to others in the gym and in competition. Most of the time unavoidable, comparison can lead you down a spiraling mental pathway, but there are techniques you can use to turn those negative emotions into at least neutral learning experiences, if not positive motivation.
In this episode Kyra and Allison do their best to explain how the olympic qualification pathways work for Paris 2024! They also go on many tangents including some thoughts about the future of routesetting and the pros and cons of the new Boulder + Lead format.
Allison and Kyra talk the delicate balance of school and climbing and what they did to strike the right balance. This also relates to work, social life, and any other major life activities that you're trying to juggle all at once. Take a listen to hear about their past, present, and future balancing acts and hopefully get some good advice on how to find whats right for you.
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I'm a little late to the game, but am listening now! Great podcast!