亚马逊热带雨林里的一束光 A Beam in the Amazon Rainforest by 张皓若

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穿过渔民们放着各种颜色的鱼虾水品，充斥着葡萄牙语陌生但热闹的声音，还有混杂着河水和热带城市特有味道的农贸市场，我在马瑙斯的港口见到了Loucivildo。

Meandering through fisherman's colorful seafood in the local food market with the strange yet lively sounds of Portuguese in the ears and the smell of special tropical city and river in my nose, there at Manaus Port, I met Loucivildo.

绿色迷彩的上衣和一条浅色短运动裤，破了一点的运动鞋，不高但黝黑结实的身材。他热情的用英语简单的问候了乘船的我们。在得知有两位来自西班牙和法国的游客之后，他又和他们用法语和西班牙语寒暄了几句。Loucivildo从小在雨林里出生和长大，是我接下来十天住在巴西的热带雨林里的向导。

He was in his camouflage green shirt, light-colored shorts and worn sports shoes. His physique was not tall but looked brawny with his tan. He welcomed us passionately in simple English when we onboarded his boat. After knowing 2 of our fellow tourists were French and Spanish, he made small talks with them in French and Spanish. Loucivildo was born and raised in a rainforest village and he'd be our guide in the Brazilian rainforest for the next 10 days.

7个人挤在一艘小船上，驶过著名的黑白河段，Loucivildo一边和我们用简单但流利的英语解释着这奇异景观的成因，一边熟练的驾驶着小船前行。

7 of us got on board, crowding the small boat. We passed by the renowned Solimões and Negro Rivers, where black and white water joined together yet flew divided with their own colors. Loucivildo introduced why such an amazing landscape came into being in simple yet fluent English while steering the boat adroitly.

热带雨林里的热是无处可逃的，特别是在没有风的时候。我们渐渐驶入人烟稀少的雨林深处，蝉在不知名的角落里鸣着，偶尔听到远处吼猴的呼唤。起风时，芭蕉树巨大的叶片像水波般颤动，沙沙的声音总让人有种下雨了的错觉。

Heat is inescapable in the rainforest, especially without wind. Slowly, we started to enter the depth of the secluded part of the rainforest. Cicadas were singing in their tenor voices in some hidden corners. Howler monkeys were howling far away. In the blows of the wind, the giant banana leaves were trembling like water waves, producing the pitter-patter sounds like it was raining.

眼看好像还很远的一团乌云，瞬间就来到了我们面前。豆大的雨点带着摧枯拉朽之势落下，不带丝毫同情或是温柔。我们狼狈的急忙用雨衣和塑料布遮住自己和装着贵重物品的包，好不容易睁开眼睛时，我看到Loucivildo被淋得湿透，但却平静的坐在船头，看向远方。顺着他的视线望去，远处的树林和水面在大雨里也是那么从容安然。不像在内陆摇摇欲坠的城市，狂风暴雨中摇晃不已的树枝，亚马逊雨林更像一个张开双臂拥抱天空的庞大身躯，宁静的把风雨融入自己的身体，滋润万物生灵。

Suddenly, a cloud floating afar flew over us in no time. Bean-sized rain drops bucketed down, with no mercy or gentleness. Helter-skelter, we covered ourselves and our bags with raincoats and plastic clothes. Struggling to open my eyes, I saw Loucivildo sitting peacefully at the bow, completely drenched, eyesight perching afar. I looked where he was looking--the forest and the water in the distance were relaxing and restful in nature's bath. Unlike the shaking and bustling mainland city and the jerking twigs in the rainstorm, the Amazon rainforest stands like a giant embracing the sky, melting the wind and rain inside of its body to mother all beings.

来势汹涌的暴雨和黑暗压城的乌云固然震撼人心，但看着大地不动声色地化解这来势汹汹，雨过之后除了沾着水滴的树叶毫无那场天地混沌的痕迹，感受到的则是敬畏，是对灵魂的洗涤。再看到Loucivildo，雨晴之后在加速行驶的小船上被风一吹，我们到达森林小屋时他也都被吹干了。就像刚才那场瓢泼大雨没有发生一样，真是森林的孩子，和养育他的自然母亲同样的秉性，一份外来旅行者——虽带着各种所谓高级的户外装备——也学不来的洒脱。

Walls of rain and the cumulonimbus helicoptering us overwhelmed me. Yet it was how the land calmly welcomed such a rainful aggression that made my soul feel awed and cleansed. When the rain ceased, there were no signs of its intensity except for a few drops on the tropical leaves. I took another look at Loucivildo. Breaking the wind while steering his boat faster under the sunshine after the rainstorm, he was dried when we arrived at the forest cabin. He was so cool about everything like nothing had happened. No wonder he was the son of the forest, sharing the same personality as that of his nature mother. Such a Zen can never be learned by outside tourists in spite of their high-end outdoor equipment.

后来的日子里，我渐渐了解了Loucivildo的故事。他从小虽在本地原著居民的部落出生，但青年时期开始在雨林里的各种民宿和旅馆打工，遇到世界各地的人们，通过和他们聊天学会了6、7门语言。

As days passed, I learned more about Loucivildo. He was born in an indigenous tribe, but he worked in hostels and hotels in the rainforest in his adolescence. By meeting and talking with people across the globe, he learned 6 or 7 languages.

白天，他带我们去开阔的水域划船，去长满刺的荷叶丛钓食人鱼，去无人涉足的雨林里徒步，去原住民的家中吃饭和学习他们采集和加工木薯粉的智慧，带我们去看爬满了小蚂蚁的大树，他温柔的让这些小蚂蚁爬到身上又回到树上，说这就是当地人的防蚊技巧，他们没有也不用防蚊喷雾。

In the daytime, he took us to row in open waters, to fish Piranha in the spiky lotus bushes, to trek in the rainforest that hadn't seen lots of human footsteps, to eat at indigenous people's homes, and learn about how they collected and processed tapioca. He also took us to see big trees resided by many many small ants. He lead them to climb to his body gently and back to the tree, explaining that this is a local technique to ward off mosquitoes. They don't possess or apply any repellents.

天黑前，我们在木屋里一起吃饭聊天。夜幕笼罩之后我们划着小船出去，目光所及之处没有一点人类文明的痕迹。闪烁的银河映在平静的湖面上，天上脚下全是星星，感觉自己好像漂浮在星空之中。正惊叹着，Loucivildo突然说十米开外的地方有鳄鱼。我们划着小船悄悄过去，他居然徒手从水里突然拎起一条小鳄鱼宝宝，和我们说完各种关于鳄鱼宝宝的知识之后，又温柔的把受惊的