In this episode I chat with Juliet Hammer and her dog Addy. Juliet is a climbing coach and an experienced boulderer and sport climber. She has a degree in biology and she's a certified strength and conditioning specialist. We talked about:

• Juliet's climbing history


• Differences between bouldering and sport in terms of preparation, mindset and tactics


• Being a short climber


• Board climbing


• Coaching philosophy and shop talk


• Personal grades


• Social media, content creation and voluntary hardship


• Value capture as both a coach and climber


• Dangers of focusing on dopamine hits

00:00:00 Intro

00:02:43 Juliet's sport/bouldering identity & seasonality

00:16:02 Proper introduction, comp/cordo climbing, coaching indoors vs outdoor clients

00:25:27 Board climbing & being a short climber

00:30:31 Strength training

00:37:27 Coaching philosophy and shop talk

00:48:07 More short climber tips, self-comparison

00:54:43 Personal grades and the toxic wasteland of 8a.nu

01:00:41 Motivations

01:02:38 Jesse is ignorant about the southeast and complains about summer

01:05:51 More seasonality / sport & boulder logistics questions

01:08:08 Hot take 1, is climbing harder always more fun?

01:12:28 Hot take 2, are sport climbers better climbers?

01:13:56 Sport climbing vs bouldering popularity and value for progression

01:16:37 Content strategy and value capture as a content creator and coach

01:26:33 Dopamine hits, voluntary hardship, video beta and availability bias

01:42:55 Addy

01:45:09 Work with Juliet