DiscoverThe TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastTBP 286 :: Correlation Between Finger Strength-to-Weight Ratio and Climbing Performance with Tyler Nelson
TBP 286 :: Correlation Between Finger Strength-to-Weight Ratio and Climbing Performance with Tyler Nelson

TBP 286 :: Correlation Between Finger Strength-to-Weight Ratio and Climbing Performance with Tyler Nelson

Update: 2025-04-09
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I asked Dr. Tyler Nelson to come back on the show to talk about some new research about finger strength-to-weight ratio and climbing performance. In other words, how much does all that finger training really affect how hard you climb? He goes over some studies done on the topic and we talk about the point at which people see diminishing returns and how (if at all) training your fingers contributes, or is correlated, to injuries.

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TBP 286 :: Correlation Between Finger Strength-to-Weight Ratio and Climbing Performance with Tyler Nelson

TBP 286 :: Correlation Between Finger Strength-to-Weight Ratio and Climbing Performance with Tyler Nelson

Neely Quinn