Brians Questions:

I craft Shaker Furniture and then donate it.  I am often gluing up tabletops.  I have seen many discussions around "how to properly joint" the edges of a-joining boards. Am typically using plain sawn cherry.

After rough dimensioning, jointing, then planing the individual pieces, and arranging the pieces so they look nice, and hopefully having  the grain run the same way (I finish the tops with a smoothing plane), it comes time to joint those edges that are to be glued.

There in lies the question....does one 1) rip them on a table saw, or 2) joint the edges such that there is a slight bow to allow compression in the center, or 3) take the pair of boards to be glued and joint them together in a book match style.   I usually do 3)

 I then clamp them using  footed bar clamps and cawls over the top.

How do you all handle this part of the process.   1), 2),3)....something else??

Secondly, I use hide glue to glue the joinery, but have had trouble using it for table top gluing up table tops --not enough open time...use titebond instead....have you had success in using hide glue for tabletop glue up??

thank you, John

Hi,

I am a hobbyist woodworker who uses a mix of hand tools and power tools. I see a lot of people nowadays using track saws where I would normally use my table saw or my circular saw with a guide. What am I missing with the track saw trend? Won’t a simple plywood guide and cheap circular saw do the exact same thing as a track saw? Thanks Adam

Guys Questions:

Hi,

I enjoy the podcast, it is favorite woodworking podcast where you get right to the point and answer real questions without a lot of wasted time.  Keep it up!

I am currently working on a fairly large cabinet & desk built-in.   It will be an "L" shape, run along one wall for about 18 feet, and then wrap around and extend out about 6 feet, with the  corner being the desk section.  I've already completed the base cabinets, so the next step will be the desktop, followed by all the shelving.

My question is about the desktop(26in deep).  My plan was to build this in 6 foot sections, which I would then join to span the whole wall.  I've been going back and forth over whether I build this out of solid wood(thinking 8/4 rough sawn which I would mill down to maybe 1-1/2in), or using veneers.  I planned to join each section using a Lamello Zeta P2.   

I have access to the tools(6cfm pump from Veneer Systems) to do either method, but am not sure if one is really much better.  I'be been leaning towards solid wood(Walnut) as I have that on hand, but not sure if that's more of me shying away from using veneers as I don't have a lot of experience on bigger projects.  This is for my home so may be an opportunity to get more practice using veneers without worry of it being a customer piece.  I'm interested in what you would recommend.

Thanks! Frank

Also a dummy, thank you Bob for opening the can of worms. Who cares if it is 1/4 sawn or 1/64th sawn?

When is it important to know? If riff sucks…then why use it or if  plane is plain to unstable to use why use it etc. Strengths and weaknesses for price versus application might be interesting to discuss, especially if opinions can vary.

What is the wheelhouse for the different boards?  I imagine it’s a combo of beauty, price and stability. Can you guys flesh out this conversation a bit? Benjamin

Huys Questions

I use Kreg work bench system so my benches are mostly straight and strong with the factors I stated above. I also am lazy or forgetful about putting down paper before glue ups. replacing the top of the work bench I have considered finishing it with thin layer or epoxy to allow a non-sticky surface for the wood glue or finishes I use.  I am also going to make match fit dove tail clamp system ( would finish with epoxy then have the cnc redue the job to clean the channels ) maybe also with dog hole.

is the epoxy finish a good way to make a more permeant bench top ? should I just lay down plywood top and replace when needed? Am considering ordering a butcher block top to make the bench so it looks nice and is more lasting. bench is 44 square and supported by wood beams in the center so it doesn't dip.

Thanks folks Paul Oki Mitch Crafts Okinawa Japan

Hi, thanks for answering a couple of my questions in the past. I have another one now about using loose tenon joinery to glue up boards to make a panel, such as a tabletop.

One feature of a Domino or a biscuit joiner is that they reference off of a face of the board, assuring a perfectly flush (or close enough) show surface. I don’t own a Domino, but I have a biscuit joiner and a dowelling jig. I would like to use dowels on occasion, but I only have a simple dowelling jig that is of the self-centering type. If all my boards are of the exact same thickness then this in theory should give good results too, but sometimes I am using 3/4” boards right from the lumber yard that I have edge jointed but have not milled to a common thickness, since I don’t want to go any thinner than the 3/4”. So the thicknesses might be off by small amounts.

So in light of this, I was thinking that I should upgrade to a higher end dowelling jig, one that references off of a face surface. Does this seem like a worthwhile idea? If so, are there certain other features I should look for in a product, and do you have specific product recommendations that you can make?

Thanks. Steve