#41 Maximum Finger Strength

Update: 2025-09-12

Description

» Finger strength is one of the most important aspects in climbing, and one of the most discussed topics with no lack of contradictory advice and opinions.

» In this episode we'll outline an approach to finger strength—mainly through no-hangs, which for me has unlocked one-arm hangs on 12mm edges and hard sends up to 8C difficulty.

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– TIME-STAMPS –
(00:00 ) – Intro
(01:08 ) – Overview
(02:03 ) – Terminology
(02:58 ) – The Yearly Approach
(06:26 ) – Hangs vs Lifts
(09:36 ) – Max No-hang Training
(09:57 ) – No-Hang Form
(14:04 ) – Type of Lifting Device
(14:48 ) – Lifts vs Holds
(16:45 ) – Reps/Sets
(17:45 ) – Session per Week
(19:22 ) – Grip Positions
(22:52 ) – Lazy Pinky
(26:31 ) – Optimization

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